New Door Lock ECU

[Josh]

This a link for a company in PA for connectors and other things. I have ordered from them in the past with no problems.
They also have a UK office as well.
I would also be in the market for one. I also have connectors so not a problem.

http://www.britishwiring.com/Multi-W...ctors-s/35.htm

They do not sell 9 pin connectors anymore.
The site is also missing listings for the female terminals, but they have the male terminals. Does not make sense.
I order wire from them though, they have a good variety and mostly all the same colors and diameters as stock.

[larsmhh]

Hi Dave!
That is an elegantly designed PCB.
But I do not like two aspects: 1) The use of SMD components which makes it much harder to change components or to find cold solder joints (if it gets a few years old) or to change components and 2) the special on-board fuse (why not use blade fuses that could be integrated in the housing).
Please do not understand this as criticism but as a community talk.

I did revise the original ECU with the modifications I did find here (? - I´m not sure, maybe it was somewhere else in the internet. If desired, I could search for the link) with different resistors and transistors to lower the stand-by current. It works fine - hopefully also in the future...

Best wishes and have a mery christmas,

Lars.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did look at using a blade fuse but with a socket it was to high to fit in the small box I decided to use. I really never expect a fuse to blow. Just to protect for a short circuit in the car wiring. The fuse lets you run without the original circuit breaker.

I never expect anyone would need to replace any components.

[Malevy]

Hi Dave!
That is an elegantly designed PCB.
But I do not like two aspects: 1) The use of SMD components which makes it much harder to change components or to find cold solder joints (if it gets a few years old) or to change components and 2) the special on-board fuse (why not use blade fuses that could be integrated in the housing).
Please do not understand this as criticism but as a community talk.

I did revise the original ECU with the modifications I did find here (? - I´m not sure, maybe it was somewhere else in the internet. If desired, I could search for the link) with different resistors and transistors to lower the stand-by current. It works fine - hopefully also in the future...

Best wishes and have a mery christmas,

Lars.

This modification you speak of I think was developed by Elvis in Germany. It is a significant improvement because of the idle current, but does not address the problem of the slow capacitor discharge through the coil. I have gone back and forth on how critical this is. On the one hand, some of these lock modules are 40 years old now and the relays are still fine. On the other hand, many lock modules had early failures which prompted such products like LockZilla. I have parts in stock to repair and "upgrade" the original DLM, but demand for this service is low (I'd say non-existent).

I did look at using a blade fuse but with a socket it was to high to fit in the small box I decided to use. I really never expect a fuse to blow. Just to protect for a short circuit in the car wiring. The fuse lets you run without the original circuit breaker.

I never expect anyone would need to replace any components.

Considering the original DLM had no fuse protection at all (the circuit breaker only protects the door solenoid), this is an improvement. I also agree that the SMD is an improvement. SMD is much less likely to suffer from vibrations issues IMHO.

There are a few things I would have done differently, but that is all a matter of opinion. I am confident anything Dave makes/sells will be good quality.

[dmcman73]

This is awesome! I was going to redesign the DLM myself but if Dave is on this, sign me up for one!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here is a photo of the door lock switch. It did not seem to move enough when I operated the manual lock button. I think some of the lock rods are not adjusted causing the limit to movement.

Anyway it looks like very little pressure on those contacts (one side has less). Also the connector pins are very oxidized (surprised it ever worked). I did get a little more movement using the actuator. What I'm going to do is Tarnex clean the pins and replace the female pins on the mating connector. I will clean up the contacts and bend the arms a little for more pressure.

Then installing one rod at a time it will let me adjust the rods to proper length while I look for maximum travel of the switch.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well after all that work on the drivers side door, it turns out the passenger side is the problem. The passenger side does not quite lock when solenoid powered only. By not lock I mean the contacts don't close unless I give it a little push on the manual lock button.

Anyway the drivers side is properly adjusted now. What works to set the rod lengths is connect the manual switch rod and then you swing the pivot back and forth and just adjust each rod so it will travel to those ends of movements.

Now when working the locks with the door open, I latched all four door latches (close the arm). Just remember to put all those latches back before closing the doors.

Now to workup the energy to pull the passenger door apart.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Now I pulled the panels off the passenger door and everything is working now.

It must be a dirty switch contact since that switch is moving fully over the contacts. Oh well will pull the switch, clean it and the connector. Will check the rods anyway since it's all open.

[Timebender]

It interested in one - I have connectors from my original unit as well as the crummy DeLorean one.

[Bitsyncmaster]

When both door switches are working, there is no electrical noise since your moving the contacts off one door but the other door keeps the circuit grounded. The only noise you get is when the contact makes the ground on the new side but that is nothing to filter in my software.

What I will do it disconnect one door switch and move the switch ever so slowly and see if I can eliminate any noise in that condition.

The passenger side looked better than the drivers side (Less oxidation on contacts and pins) so it must have been a dirty contact. Only one rod needed adjustment. My locks never felt so good when working now.

God I hate those pins in the connectors. The male pins are pretty easy to pull but the female pins are so hard. The problem is the two latches are to wide to compress into the pin and they are pointed which makes them dig into the plastic shell. Very poorly engineered for removal.