New Door Lock ECU

[Bitsyncmaster]

That was a good test to unplug one door switch and try to screw it up. I was able to very slowly move the switch so the ground lifted and then move it back and it found a bug in my software that kicked the solenoids back the same unlock position. Not that anyone would have seen that but it was a simple software change.

I still have not tested it with solenoids but those work faster than the actuators and my relays are rated for 20 amps continuous and much higher for peak.

I will now build up 10 units.

[Malevy]

When both door switches are working, there is no electrical noise since your moving the contacts off one door but the other door keeps the circuit grounded. The only noise you get is when the contact makes the ground on the new side but that is nothing to filter in my software.

When I did my DLM, I had everything working with the car off.. Then, took the car for a ride. Other sources of "noise" in the car would sometimes make the lock actuators click. In my case, I filtered in hardware... But, however you plan on filtering- I'd leave it in there even if you think you don't need it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

When I did my DLM, I had everything working with the car off.. Then, took the car for a ride. Other sources of "noise" in the car would sometimes make the lock actuators click. In my case, I filtered in hardware... But, however you plan on filtering- I'd leave it in there even if you think you don't need it.

I did some more thought on noise. I could see if the car was moving or on a bad road the ground connections on the door switches could be noisy. So my software remembers what condition the locks are set and will not fire the solenoids (or actuators) to that same condition. Hence both door switches lost ground and then go back to ground. It won't cause noise getting a ground on the opposite side since the switches never get close to making that contact. I did leave the capacitor filter in anyway but I would bet that software filter would work by itself.

[Bitsyncmaster]

This a link for a company in PA for connectors and other things. I have ordered from them in the past with no problems.
They also have a UK office as well.
I would also be in the market for one. I also have connectors so not a problem.

http://www.britishwiring.com/Multi-W...ctors-s/35.htm

Britishwiring is only showing 16 of the 9 pin pairs in stock. I wonder if they can get more. I do have some 9 pin connectors but I would need a supply of them to sell many units with the connector attached.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ive got 8 units (no connector) with 9 inch long wires ready to sell. If you wanted one I will sell for $75 including shipping to US address.

I attached my notes I started for documentation. Also a photo of a stock connector wired.

I'm still working on notes but if you have any questions, let me know.

[BABIS]

Hello Dave,

can you add instructions about adding the two ground inputs from remote module?

do you think your board will fit inside the stock dlm housing?

Thanks

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hello Dave,

can you add instructions about adding the two ground inputs from remote module?

do you think your board will fit inside the stock dlm housing?

Thanks

The two inputs are the two empty solder pads labeled W10 and W11. Right now I have software looking for a rising edge to do a lock or unlock. W10 is for lock and W11 is for unlock. Voltage from your remote can be anything up to 250 volts but the low level must be less than one volt. My circuit board is 2.34 inches long and 1.535 inches wide. I use 16 AWG wire for all connections.

[Chris 16409]

Dave couldn’t we have the connector 3D printed?

British Wiring may be getting their connectors from here:

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electri...cket-connector

So I’d say the supply should be good enough to satisfy a run of your Lock modules.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave couldn’t we have the connector 3D printed?

British Wiring may be getting their connectors from here:

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electri...cket-connector

So I’d say the supply should be good enough to satisfy a run of your Lock modules.

It's mostly the pins that would require quite an investment to produce. Actually making little changes to pin design would enable the female pins to be removed easily. The AMP connectors are much better for pin removal. You can even do it without an extractor. I just think there are none being produced any longer. I did a test of ordering 50 of those and it came back only 26 were in stock.

Yes you could 3D print the shell but I would not want to do production numbers with my 3D printer. Mine uses liquid and a laser which works with great resolution but it messy cleaning up and slow to print.

By the way, My LOCKZILA used one of the AMP connectors so they have been around a long time.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had a customer that wanted to use a remote. So his system seems to use a negative pulse to lock or unlock. So as I was changing the software, I found a bug with the remote operation that I had to also fix in the software. The stock door lock switches stay set or clear but the remote is just a pulse and I did not account for that with my first software design.

So right now, I will keep the negative pulse for remote operation.