Input Shaft Play Question

[fmj78]

Unless the car was driven a lot with bad C/V boots, your half shafts should be very rebuildable. A little bit if time, some new boots, a lick of paint, and a lot of grease and they should be just fine. Unless the grearbox was driven a lot with no oil inside the input bearing should be OK but if it makes you feel better replace it. The Service Manual has all the info you need to open and reassemble the box. The most important thing is the pre-load on the diff carrier bearings. Now that you are going to replace the split pins, get the kit from PJ Grady. He sells a kit where you put the new pin in and then a smaller one inside the bigger one to make it stronger. Not sure if the other vendors offer that. You may also consider buying a new pivot bolt for the linkage (keep the old one as a spare).

RGR on the kit from Grady. I already have the new pivot bolt (and new bracket) for the linkage because the old one is seized to the bracket.

going to get the exhaust off today. and get the flywheel to a machine shop on Monday.

[fmj78]

Seems normal to me. You'll need to remove the coupler from the primary shaft to replace the seal, so it'll be a good time to inspect it.

thanks. I'm going into that case next week so I'll report what I find.

[David T]

One thing about the Service Manual. Do not go by the picture. Be really careful which way the diff comes out so you put it back correctly or you will have 5 speeds in reverse! Take pictures as you disassemble to aid in reassembly. Make sure the breather hole is not plugged up, Very common for the little rubber plug to be long gone. If you don't have a magnetic drain plug get one.

[fmj78]

So I got the clutch/pressure plate/fly wheel off yesterday and the pilot bearing just came out with a finger pull. That seems wrong. Anyone else have that experience?

[David T]

The pilot bearing usually comes out without a lot of "drama". Not in Deloreans, but on some cars and trucks it is a real battle to get that bearing out. Especially because it is in a blind hole. The "trick" then is to pack the bearing with as much grease as you can and then hammer a tight fitting punch inside the bearing and, using the hydraulic pressure created by the grease, the bearing is pushed out. The other way is with a slap hammer. The bearing can be *loose* but there should be NO play when fully seated, either in the crank or the input shaft. Be sure the bearing is fully seated into the crank or it will put excessive end thrust on the input shaft. Another thing to watch for. In the Delorean they use hollow dowels to line up the transaxle and motor. Make sure they are both there when you put things back together. It doesn't matter which part they are in as you assemble but they both MUST be there.

[fmj78]

The pilot bearing usually comes out without a lot of "drama". Not in Deloreans, but on some cars and trucks it is a real battle to get that bearing out. Especially because it is in a blind hole. The "trick" then is to pack the bearing with as much grease as you can and then hammer a tight fitting punch inside the bearing and, using the hydraulic pressure created by the grease, the bearing is pushed out. The other way is with a slap hammer. The bearing can be *loose* but there should be NO play when fully seated, either in the crank or the input shaft. Be sure the bearing is fully seated into the crank or it will put excessive end thrust on the input shaft. Another thing to watch for. In the Delorean they use hollow dowels to line up the transaxle and motor. Make sure they are both there when you put things back together. It doesn't matter which part they are in as you assemble but they both MUST be there.

right so if the bearing is not snug in the housing, should I get an oversize bearing or replace the housing?

I think this problem has existed the entire 17 years I've owned the car. When I first got it, there was a "chirp" sound coming from that bearing. I had the clutch replaced straight away (2003) with a new RMS and pilot bearing but the chirp came back pretty quickly and has been there all along. Of other note, one of the four mounting bolts broke when removing the trans. I've damn near melted that thing with heat, welded nuts to it, cursed at it, and soaked it in all kinds of penetrating liquid. It doesn't move. All 3 of the other bolts came out way too easy in my opinion. I think I'll be drilling this one out....

[DMC-81]

right so if the bearing is not snug in the housing, should I get an oversize bearing or replace the housing?

I think this problem has existed the entire 17 years I've owned the car. When I first got it, there was a "chirp" sound coming from that bearing. I had the clutch replaced straight away (2003) with a new RMS and pilot bearing but the chirp came back pretty quickly and has been there all along. Of other note, one of the four mounting bolts broke when removing the trans. I've damn near melted that thing with heat, welded nuts to it, cursed at it, and soaked it in all kinds of penetrating liquid. It doesn't move. All 3 of the other bolts came out way too easy in my opinion. I think I'll be drilling this one out....

The pilot bearing is not tight in the crankshaft holder, but if you are concerned about it slipping, you can use a bearing retainer ( Loctite 648 or similar).

[fmj78]

The pilot bearing is not tight in the crankshaft holder, but if you are concerned about it slipping, you can use a bearing retainer ( Loctite 648 or similar).

thanks for the tip. Once I get this broken bolt out, I should be home free.

[fmj78]

Well... I'm building a new engine now....


https://youtu.be/q4TVESHGyVc

[DMC-81]

Well... I'm building a new engine now....


https://youtu.be/q4TVESHGyVc

Oh man, that's unfortunate. I wonder if the block can be repaired by filling in the boss with aluminum (i.e. welded) and then tapped for a new bolt? I had a larger that a quarter sized hole filled in on my gearbox by a competent aluminum welder.

Still, the engine has to come out.