Input Shaft Play Question

[fmj78]

Started as a clutch job + exhaust upgrade "while i'm in there" ...

I've got the trans on the bench and the input shaft seems to have a TON of play in it.

video:
https://youtu.be/jBnWYyEMojk

I'm planning to take the 5th gear cover off to loctite and re-torque the output shaft nut, but wasn't planning on cracking open the case.

What say the community on the amount of play I'm seeing on that input shaft?

[David T]

Normal. The pilot bearing helps to support the input shaft. Replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pressure plate and friction plate. If the flywheel has blue spots or cracks get it cut or replaced. Use a pilot tool to line up the clutch before replacing the transaxle. If the crank seal is leaking replace it. If the slave cylinder is leaking, replace it. I would open the case and replace the split pins, you are way more than 1/2 way there with the trans out. Other things to check are the little rubber bushings in the shift linkage, motor mounts, and output shaft seals. Also a good time to regrease the C/V joints. Check, lubricate, and readjust the shift linkage if necessary. Have fun!

[RamblinDMC]

that doesn't seem right at all. I'd say your bearings are shot in your transmission. I rebuilt mine earlier this year and the output shaft had next to no play in it. There may be some spec in the shop manual, but I'd say that's abnormal. The transmission isn't hard to take apart at all and the bearings are available from our vendors. There's a video on youtube on transmission disassembly.

[DMC-81]

Without knowing the history, maintenance, or miles on the gearbox, I would say that it is unlikely the nose bearing that's worn. There is a relatively soft input shaft coupler on the other end of that shaft (before the bearing) that is probably wallowed out a bit. I had a little bit of play as well (less than yours). For other reasons, when I tore down my gearbox, I changed the weak coupler to a fully splined one. That solved the play at the same time.

That part of the input shaft is supported by the pilot bearing on the engine side and the couple on the transmission side. Here is my gearbox thread with some pictures and detail:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...ox-flaw-repair

Make sure you use a quality pilot bearing. I chose Nachi for my car.

[fmj78]

Normal. The pilot bearing helps to support the input shaft. Replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pressure plate and friction plate. If the flywheel has blue spots or cracks get it cut or replaced. Use a pilot tool to line up the clutch before replacing the transaxle. If the crank seal is leaking replace it. If the slave cylinder is leaking, replace it. I would open the case and replace the split pins, you are way more than 1/2 way there with the trans out. Other things to check are the little rubber bushings in the shift linkage, motor mounts, and output shaft seals. Also a good time to regrease the C/V joints. Check, lubricate, and readjust the shift linkage if necessary. Have fun!

Thanks for the info. I'm going to do the roll pins so I'll be able to take a look at the input shaft. I have the whole clutch kit with main seal, gasket, TO, and Pilot bearings. Planning to have the flywheel done. I did the slave cylinder a few years ago when I had the intake off along with new hydro lines. Definitely need new bushings, trans mounts, and the output shaft seals now that I'm going to open it. I'm thinking I might trade my axels for "new" ones from PJ Grady.

Cheers

[fmj78]

that doesn't seem right at all. I'd say your bearings are shot in your transmission. I rebuilt mine earlier this year and the output shaft had next to no play in it. There may be some spec in the shop manual, but I'd say that's abnormal. The transmission isn't hard to take apart at all and the bearings are available from our vendors. There's a video on youtube on transmission disassembly.

I found Roedl's videos today and watched them all twice. That kind of pushed me over the hump to open it up.

Thanks for the reply.

[fmj78]

Without knowing the history, maintenance, or miles on the gearbox, I would say that it is unlikely the nose bearing that's worn. There is a relatively soft input shaft coupler on the other end of that shaft (before the bearing) that is probably wallowed out a bit. I had a little bit of play as well (less than yours). For other reasons, when I tore down my gearbox, I changed the weak coupler to a fully splined one. That solved the play at the same time.

That part of the input shaft is supported by the pilot bearing on the engine side and the couple on the transmission side. Here is my gearbox thread with some pictures and detail:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...ox-flaw-repair

Make sure you use a quality pilot bearing. I chose Nachi for my car.

Hey I read all about your transmission work today on the forum. Nice work and thanks for all the documentation and pictures.

[DMC-81]

Hey I read all about your transmission work today on the forum. Nice work and thanks for all the documentation and pictures.

Thanks, and good luck with the task.

[David T]

Unless the car was driven a lot with bad C/V boots, your half shafts should be very rebuildable. A little bit if time, some new boots, a lick of paint, and a lot of grease and they should be just fine. Unless the grearbox was driven a lot with no oil inside the input bearing should be OK but if it makes you feel better replace it. The Service Manual has all the info you need to open and reassemble the box. The most important thing is the pre-load on the diff carrier bearings. Now that you are going to replace the split pins, get the kit from PJ Grady. He sells a kit where you put the new pin in and then a smaller one inside the bigger one to make it stronger. Not sure if the other vendors offer that. You may also consider buying a new pivot bolt for the linkage (keep the old one as a spare).

[Ethan Rode]

Seems normal to me. You'll need to remove the coupler from the primary shaft to replace the seal, so it'll be a good time to inspect it.