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Thread: Input Shaft Play Question

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

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    Input Shaft Play Question

    Started as a clutch job + exhaust upgrade "while i'm in there" ...

    I've got the trans on the bench and the input shaft seems to have a TON of play in it.

    video:
    https://youtu.be/jBnWYyEMojk

    I'm planning to take the 5th gear cover off to loctite and re-torque the output shaft nut, but wasn't planning on cracking open the case.

    What say the community on the amount of play I'm seeing on that input shaft?

  2. #2
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Normal. The pilot bearing helps to support the input shaft. Replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pressure plate and friction plate. If the flywheel has blue spots or cracks get it cut or replaced. Use a pilot tool to line up the clutch before replacing the transaxle. If the crank seal is leaking replace it. If the slave cylinder is leaking, replace it. I would open the case and replace the split pins, you are way more than 1/2 way there with the trans out. Other things to check are the little rubber bushings in the shift linkage, motor mounts, and output shaft seals. Also a good time to regrease the C/V joints. Check, lubricate, and readjust the shift linkage if necessary. Have fun!
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
    Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech RamblinDMC's Avatar
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    Location:  Farmington Hills MI

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    that doesn't seem right at all. I'd say your bearings are shot in your transmission. I rebuilt mine earlier this year and the output shaft had next to no play in it. There may be some spec in the shop manual, but I'd say that's abnormal. The transmission isn't hard to take apart at all and the bearings are available from our vendors. There's a video on youtube on transmission disassembly.

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Without knowing the history, maintenance, or miles on the gearbox, I would say that it is unlikely the nose bearing that's worn. There is a relatively soft input shaft coupler on the other end of that shaft (before the bearing) that is probably wallowed out a bit. I had a little bit of play as well (less than yours). For other reasons, when I tore down my gearbox, I changed the weak coupler to a fully splined one. That solved the play at the same time.

    That part of the input shaft is supported by the pilot bearing on the engine side and the couple on the transmission side. Here is my gearbox thread with some pictures and detail:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...ox-flaw-repair

    Make sure you use a quality pilot bearing. I chose Nachi for my car.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Posts:    28

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Normal. The pilot bearing helps to support the input shaft. Replace the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pressure plate and friction plate. If the flywheel has blue spots or cracks get it cut or replaced. Use a pilot tool to line up the clutch before replacing the transaxle. If the crank seal is leaking replace it. If the slave cylinder is leaking, replace it. I would open the case and replace the split pins, you are way more than 1/2 way there with the trans out. Other things to check are the little rubber bushings in the shift linkage, motor mounts, and output shaft seals. Also a good time to regrease the C/V joints. Check, lubricate, and readjust the shift linkage if necessary. Have fun!
    Thanks for the info. I'm going to do the roll pins so I'll be able to take a look at the input shaft. I have the whole clutch kit with main seal, gasket, TO, and Pilot bearings. Planning to have the flywheel done. I did the slave cylinder a few years ago when I had the intake off along with new hydro lines. Definitely need new bushings, trans mounts, and the output shaft seals now that I'm going to open it. I'm thinking I might trade my axels for "new" ones from PJ Grady.

    Cheers

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

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    Quote Originally Posted by RamblinDMC View Post
    that doesn't seem right at all. I'd say your bearings are shot in your transmission. I rebuilt mine earlier this year and the output shaft had next to no play in it. There may be some spec in the shop manual, but I'd say that's abnormal. The transmission isn't hard to take apart at all and the bearings are available from our vendors. There's a video on youtube on transmission disassembly.
    I found Roedl's videos today and watched them all twice. That kind of pushed me over the hump to open it up.

    Thanks for the reply.

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Without knowing the history, maintenance, or miles on the gearbox, I would say that it is unlikely the nose bearing that's worn. There is a relatively soft input shaft coupler on the other end of that shaft (before the bearing) that is probably wallowed out a bit. I had a little bit of play as well (less than yours). For other reasons, when I tore down my gearbox, I changed the weak coupler to a fully splined one. That solved the play at the same time.

    That part of the input shaft is supported by the pilot bearing on the engine side and the couple on the transmission side. Here is my gearbox thread with some pictures and detail:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...ox-flaw-repair

    Make sure you use a quality pilot bearing. I chose Nachi for my car.
    Hey I read all about your transmission work today on the forum. Nice work and thanks for all the documentation and pictures.

  8. #8
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmj78 View Post
    Hey I read all about your transmission work today on the forum. Nice work and thanks for all the documentation and pictures.
    Thanks, and good luck with the task.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  9. #9
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Unless the car was driven a lot with bad C/V boots, your half shafts should be very rebuildable. A little bit if time, some new boots, a lick of paint, and a lot of grease and they should be just fine. Unless the grearbox was driven a lot with no oil inside the input bearing should be OK but if it makes you feel better replace it. The Service Manual has all the info you need to open and reassemble the box. The most important thing is the pre-load on the diff carrier bearings. Now that you are going to replace the split pins, get the kit from PJ Grady. He sells a kit where you put the new pin in and then a smaller one inside the bigger one to make it stronger. Not sure if the other vendors offer that. You may also consider buying a new pivot bolt for the linkage (keep the old one as a spare).
    David Teitelbaum

  10. #10
    Member
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    Seems normal to me. You'll need to remove the coupler from the primary shaft to replace the seal, so it'll be a good time to inspect it.

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