FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Stage II timing question

  1. #1
    My frame has two coats of wax Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    4,325

    My VIN:    I respect my vin enough not to whore it out among the masses.

    Stage II timing question

    After checking the timing on my Stage II automatic, it looks like DMCH advances it to between 15 and 16 degrees. That seems a bit much but I have never had any knock (that I can hear anyway) in the past 12 years. My question is if I pull it back closer to 13, will I get a better low end grunt?

    My car being an automatic, I can use all the help in the low range I can get and being that I just cruise around in this thing, I think I would happily sacrifice a few upper end HP that I never see to gain some torque that I would enjoy at every red light, then again maybe I am just splitting hairs?

    timing.jpg

  2. #2
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  SK, Canada

    Posts:    2,239

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (ADOA)

    you're splitting hairs.
    Even if it did provide more power down low there is no proof other than word of mouth.
    16 deg is not a whole lot of base timing anyway, you will likely lose power everywhere by retarding it further.

    but if you disagree
    its a pretty easy change, just try it.

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
    LS Swap Parts:
    http://lsdelorean.com

  3. #3
    My frame has two coats of wax Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    4,325

    My VIN:    I respect my vin enough not to whore it out among the masses.

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    you're splitting hairs.
    Even if it did provide more power down low there is no proof other than word of mouth.
    16 deg is not a whole lot of base timing anyway, you will likely lose power everywhere by retarding it further.

    but if you disagree
    its a pretty easy change, just try it.
    I'll take your word for it. I just got a timing gun so of course my first impulse is to invent a problem so I can fix it.

  4. #4
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    994

    My VIN:    10270

    If reducing timing increases torque that could be a sign that the engine was overtimed. In theory the stage 2 package was tested and set optimally for most driving conditions.

    Unfortunately there is very little data published about optimal timing for the B28F, stock or otherwise. Dyno time is needed to set it best, but then you'd need a programmable ignition like the MSD 6AL-2.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  5. #5
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,966

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    By moving the initial timing point you just slide the timing curve up and down, you do not affect it's shape. Less initial timing will mean less advance when the mechanical and vacuum is "all in". Generally you want less advance so it is easier to start and you want to get all of the advance in as fast as you can. Using the highest octane you can get will help to prevent detonation (knocking). Because the Stage II has a "hotter" cam the motor can tolerate more advance than stock. As a previous post said, experiment. You can't hurt anything if you stop when you hear knocking. You can also experiment with the mechanical and vacuum advance. Try to get more and see if you can put it in faster.
    David Teitelbaum

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •