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Thread: Tank varnish

  1. #11
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    Join Date:  Jan 2019

    Posts:    90

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    So did you have to rebuild the fuel distributor?
    I took the distributor off the car and did the following WITHOUT opening the two halves.

    1. I carefully removed the plunger, cleaned it and set it to the side wrapped in a rag
    2. Pulled the fuel pressure regulator out and took that apart, cleaned it an replaced the rubber orings with new ones from DeloreanGO
    3. I removed each small screen from the output ports at the top of the distributor (the ports going to each injector) and replaced them with new ones from DeloreanGO. The screens come out by threading a machine screw into the tops of them and then pulling them out. They are made of plastic and are pressed in.
    4. I cleaned the chamber where the plunger goes into the distributor and I also cleaned out the chamber where the pressure regulator goes into.
    5. Prior to installing the new screens into the output ports, you could connect everything back to the car and run the fuel pump to flush the distributor. Just connect the injector hoses the the distributor, without the injectors, place each hose into a secured large fuel proof container and flush new gas through it. Take the hoses off, drive the new screens in and you're all set. If your distributor isn't in really bad shape, it should come back to life. I had a lot of varnish in my lines and just doing that cleaned everything up and my engine fires right up perfectly. Just make sure you don't run acetone or carb cleaner through the distributor or you'll rot the orings located inside of it warranting a full rebuild.

    If you notice that fuel isn't coming out of any of the injector lines when you're flushing it, you may have a larger clog. You can keep trying to flush it and if it doesn't work, send it out for a rebuild.

    When I reassembled everything, I applied a very light coat of Marvels mystery oil to the orings to lubricate them for the installation.

  2. #12
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    Join Date:  Jan 2019

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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Ha-ha, I guess I never read the can. So do you suppose I could run it straight as a fuel for a few minutes to clean out the fuel distributor? I wonder how it would run the engine as compared to gas? I wonder if "seafoam" is made of it?
    Do not run acetone through the distributor, there are rubber orings in there that it will deteriorate. Acetone is NOT rubber friendly.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    215

    Quote Originally Posted by dmcman73 View Post
    Do not run acetone through the distributor, there are rubber orings in there that it will deteriorate. Acetone is NOT rubber friendly.
    I just had a long discussion about running acetone mix in fuel with my brother. He mentioned the issue with rubber. He said he has run a beer mug of acetone to a tank of gas and it cleaned it good. He said there's lots of U tube videos on the subject. Most are to do with mpg, not cleaning out the injectors or fuel system. I'm not very keen on the idea right now. I got the car running alittle better now. I might just run a double dose of some injector cleaning solution and see how it goes.

  4. #14
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    Join Date:  Jan 2019

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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    I just had a long discussion about running acetone mix in fuel with my brother. He mentioned the issue with rubber. He said he has run a beer mug of acetone to a tank of gas and it cleaned it good. He said there's lots of U tube videos on the subject. Most are to do with mpg, not cleaning out the injectors or fuel system. I'm not very keen on the idea right now. I got the car running alittle better now. I might just run a double dose of some injector cleaning solution and see how it goes.
    Don't forget, you're dealing with a 40 year old car when there was to ethanol in the gas mix so all that rubber starts to break down. You don't want to throw acetone in the mix.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111

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    talk cleaning

    I've heard you can put a loose rag in the
    tank are blow air into it, and the rag will
    flutter around cleaning it. Adding a solvent
    to the rag will help. Never tried it but it
    sounds logical....

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,975

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    The way I do it is to remove what liquid is still in the tank and dispose of it properly. Carefully remove all of the parts inside taking care not to break the stud loose if possible (sometimes they get so rusted up you can't help it). Scoop out whatever solid dirt remains on the bottom of the tank. Finally wipe the inside (mainly the bottom) of the tank with a rag socked in Acetone. You can also wipe the parts you removed with Acetone but you usually replace the suction hose, the fuel pump, the inner and outer boots, and the 2 fuel lines. Maybe even the wire and plug to the fuel pump. Or you just replace the whole mess with the new style fuel pump assembly. Be very careful because the old fuel is flammable and so is the Acetone. Use gloves, a respirator, eye protection, and plenty of ventilation. Best to do it outside, not in the garage so you don't stick up the house. I also keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. Taking the fuel tank out does not make it any easier. Remove the fuel sender unit and disassemble and clean it too unless you are using the new style pump assembly with a sender in it. Acetone works well but it is dangerous so be careful.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #17
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.

    Posts:    1,768

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    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    +1 on the safety and disposal notes David T shares regarding acetone.

    I've worked with it professionally for non-automotive cleanup in a lab environment. Here is a generic acetone Safety Data Sheet for reference.

    Pay close attention to Sec. 8.3 regarding PPE. Absolutely do not use disposable nitrile or latex gloves with acetone. It penetrates them and then they dissolve. Good (reusable) butyl rubber or neoprene gloves are called for with this solvent. Think about getting ones with integrated coated sleeves for reaching further into the tank. McMaster-Carr sells them if you can't get them locally.

    Sec. 13 of the SDS tells how to dispose of acetone and dirty rags/towels. Call your local residential waste hauler for advice - they should know how to handle acetone waste correctly or point you to whoever does.

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    .....Be very careful because the old fuel is flammable and so is the Acetone. Use gloves, a respirator, eye protection, and plenty of ventilation. Best to do it outside, not in the garage so you don't stick up the house. I also keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case......Acetone works well but it is dangerous so be careful.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  8. #18
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    You won't be able to buy acetone in California.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    You won't be able to buy acetone in California.
    You can buy Acetone no problem but no longer Denatured Alcohol (which was great for cleaning up brake fluid).

    Mark

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    215

    Quote Originally Posted by SS Spoiler View Post
    I've heard you can put a loose rag in the
    tank are blow air into it, and the rag will
    flutter around cleaning it. Adding a solvent
    to the rag will help. Never tried it but it
    sounds logical....
    I'd have to see that. Ha-ha.

    I just did it like David T.

    I might try DMCman's distributor cleaning method. Right now I'm waiting for some parts.

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