That eyebrow effect (shrinkage) is caused by aging and sunlight, not heat from the headlights. The rear facia also shrinks and it doesn't have headlights. You get a puckering on the corners.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
That eyebrow effect (shrinkage) is caused by aging and sunlight, not heat from the headlights. The rear facia also shrinks and it doesn't have headlights. You get a puckering on the corners.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 242
My VIN: 16563
ahh well that clears that for me. Yeah interesting what happens to theses facias of the years. Explains why everyone's car is slightly different. My rear facia has actually distorted in such a way to where the ledge of the black meeting the gray has lifted inwards causing water to catch in the valley so to speak. Very odd. Its almost as if I need to attach a rod at the bottom pulling under the car and apply heat. But its not obvious enough to tackle yet.Originally Posted by David T
1983 Delorean-auto, black/gray int. 38k miles
Location: Japan . Tokyo
Posts: 17
My VIN: 3014
Hi Michael , Saw those pristine photos, I want to ask, how well is the Black sleeve that protect the wire from the Stage 1 Manifold ? From my eyes there seem really close ,
Posts: 4,764
My VIN: Banged your VIN'S mom
I imagine you mean the intake tube to the air cleaner? It gets warm just like everything in the engine bay but never hot enough to melt. I considered wrapping the headers but was told that would be a bad idea(no explanation why though). Once I left it loose before driving and the sleeve melted in one place where it rested on the header. I since went to advance Auto and replaced the whole set up with a Spectre tube, hose connector and added a flange on the pontoon for that polished and professional look I was going for.
SmartSelect_20200103-182516_Gallery-1.jpg
Edit...oh now I see you mean the wiring harness at the alternator. Yeah those wires were very close to the headers so I used a titanium heat sleeve(also from Advance) for all the wires at the starter and alternator. This actually keeps the wires cooler. I had plenty left over so I did the visible part of the wiring harness in heat sleeve for aesthetics.
20200315_192504.jpg
All this was done last winter. Advance Auto Parts is now a unofficial sponsor of my engine bay. https://www.designengineering.com/ti...tect-a-sleeve/
Last edited by Michael; 02-24-2021 at 08:09 AM.
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
Perhaps. I have seen other alleged low mile cars with eyebrowing also. If I hadn't been "exposed" to the heat idea early on, I'd be suggesting different factors like stress from the headlight bucket screws/springs.
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 242
My VIN: 16563
I like David Ts response to this. Judging by the other crazy distorting our facias do over time, it makes sense that its not to do with the heat or anything other than just time and the plastics used doing funny things. In theory an uninstalled facia from new should look the same if stored as a facia on a car assuming they are both in the same location (same environment, conditiond etc)
1983 Delorean-auto, black/gray int. 38k miles
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I have seen NOS facias and they do shrink but not the same way as on a car. When they are on a car they are held at fixed points by their attachments so they shrink differently than when they are in a box or on a shelf. If you have ever tried to put one on you will know what I mean. Nothing lines up well and you have to force them on. A good reason to avoid taking them off unless you really have to.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 242
My VIN: 16563
It was HIGHLY suggested I not remove mine when it came time to paint so I masked and painted on the car. Good for many reasons I discovered. Including all the mounting points and hardware that can break. Definitely a good call
1983 Delorean-auto, black/gray int. 38k miles
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
Phew, right. Well, I'm about to attempt to remove mine anyway (again); since this time I have the headlight buckets *and* brackets out (without removing the hood - it's possible), but I think
the whole mess is gonna be a whole lot easier to put back if it's removed, and I still suspect mouse leavings behind it. It's been removed at least once before (or possibly replaced)
and I certainly don't have eyebrows, so I shouldn't be too worried.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
As long as you are committed to removing it, just look forward to having to repair a few broken studs and you will probably have to reglue some back into the facia. As long as it is off you can stick a piece of aluminum angle in it to stiffen it up to prevent any eyebrow effect. As you remove it try to keep track of any shims or washers but you may have to add or remove some to get a good fit. Also be prepared for a fight to get it back on. Take your time. Heat will help. If you can, soften it up in the sun or use heat lamps. You can do a pretty good job cleaning things up just by taking off the front grill and the headlights. Check the hood hinges. If they are rusty either rebuild or replace them.
David Teitelbaum
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