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Thread: Drove the Delorean for the first time.

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

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    Drove the Delorean for the first time.

    Woohoo!

    It was fun while it lasted. Lol.

    So I got my fancy PPV o-rings and installed them in the car last night. Started it up and it would run as long as I didn't let it go to idle. I decided to take it for a spin to see if warming it up made a differnce. First I drove it around my yard few times. I have 10 acres and it seemed to drive fine. It had more power than I would expect from 130hp. I asked my wife if she wanted to go for a short ride on the road. She said she would stay there incase I needed rescuing. (Smart woman)

    So I drive down to my gate. Of course this is the first time I used the brakes with some speed. They worked, but were a little grabby. The rotors look terrible and I figured it was cleaning off some rust. Anyways, right after I got on the road, I had problems. First, the steering was pulling to the left hard. I got in second gear and was going up the road about half a mile when the engine started getting weaker. I figured there was trouble and decided to go back. I turned around and got a short distance and it wouldn't go.

    I still ran and now it would idle. I suspected the brakes were locked up. I got out and felt them and three of them were warm. The left front was smoking hot. I couldn't push the car at all. The engine ran, but couldn't be revved above 2 grand. I shut it off and called the wife. I towed it home with my truck. (Wife driving)

    When I got it in my yard, I left it while I put away my truck and some other stuff. Because I had the warning lights on while I towed it, the battery was dead. (12 year old battery) I had another somewhat newer battery in my shop, so I installed it. I tried the starter and it cranked right up and ran fine. I drove it around the yard and everything was fine for about two minutes. Then the engine was back to limited revs. I put it in garage. At least the brakes seemed to have fixed them selves. (I'm sure I will be changing them out soon.)

    Today's another day. Ha-ha.

  2. #2
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    For the brake problem you will be rebuilding or replacing the 4 calipers and the master cylinder. Good idea to do the clutch cylinders too. For the idle problem, that could be a lot of things. Start with a good battery.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
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    Can't believe you had the nuts to drive it with a 12 year old battery - let alone rusty/old brakes.
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    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  4. #4
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    The brakes are pretty normal from sitting. Rebuild kits are available from vendors and are cheap. Easy to rebuild unless the piston and bore are rusted but even then the parts are available. While they're off being rebuilt take the rotors to NAPA for a $20 apiece cut. Are you saying the car wouldn't rev past 2K with a load or without a load? When my caliper stuck it felt like the engine was straining but wouldn't rev, too much of a load. Sounds like you will be back on the road with just a few small repairs.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Not everyone is comfortable rebuilding brake parts. For those that do, the calipers are usually rebuildable but the pistons get corroded and have to be replaced and the seals get torn. The master cylinder bore gets corroded and is usually unrebuldable. If you take the rotors to get cut, have them take just a skim cut (0.010) to clean and true them up. Or just get a 3" 80# pad on a drill and clean the rust off. If the pedal pulsates then you could cut the rotors. Once you can get the car moving you can better see how the motor works. And it will be a lot safer! This is not unusual for a car that has been sitting for a long time.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
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    Join Date:  Dec 2018

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    I've worked on cars/boats/aircraft my whole life. I have zero fear about rebuilding brakes. (Done it many times) I have my own lathe and can true the rotors up no problem. I will probably get new ones because I'm betting they won't clean up in the allowable cut. We'll see. I was reading the thread about vented discs up front and I might do that. Looks like an easy job. (Don't think it needs it in the rear.) But I want it running before I tackle that stuff.

    The engine would not rev up under no load. In fact, it would rev up from an idle till about 2,000 and then start backing off if you pushed it further. Haven't had time to work on it today. Im courious if it will drive good till it warms up. The water temp gauge barely moved last night, but when I went back there a lot of heat was coming out. Makes me wonder if the water pump is working. I wish I had checked the rad last night. I never heard the fans.

  7. #7
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    The plot thickens

    So I just came in from working on it. First, I checked the front brakes. Amazing enough, they looked pretty good. The rotors were cleaned off by last nights adventure. I jacked it up, spun the tire and pushed the brake and all was fine. I didn't look at the rear brakes, but I'm fairly pleased.

    Next I started it. Even though my shop battery is old, it starts the car easily. It seemed to rev ok, so took it around the yard again. It wasn't terrible, but I could see it was reving like it should. I pulled it in the garage with the back out and let it idle. I wanted it to get up to temp and see the fans come on. Well I idled and revved the engine for fifteen minutes and the gauge never got over 120-130. I went up and felt the front rad hose and it was stone cold. It was about 70 degrees outside. I pointed a lazor temp gauge at the rad hoses around the engine and they were running around 160. What gives? Does this car not get hot?

    Now for the real kicker. While I was checking things at the engine, I noticed a lot of heat coming up. Funny with everything running so cool. Then I saw it, the exhaust chamber on the driver's side of the engine was glowing red. I've seen exhaust manifolds glow when they were worked hard, but this was just idling. I sware they were translucent.

    So my new theory is the exhaust is somewhat plugged. Hot exhaust does come out of both pipes, so I'm not sure. I've heard if you plug someone's exhaust pipe with a potato, it will run bad and overheat. Not sure if it only overheats the engine and not the water.

    Anybody have experience like this?

  8. #8
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    you likely have a clogged injector, that cylinder is running dangerously lean.
    Beyond this and the brakes it should like the fuel system needs some work.

    Edit, unless you are refering to the Cat, not one of the primaries. the cat internals can collapse and clog. the muffler is cross flow so any exhaust from either side of the engine combines and comes out both tips.

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  9. #9
    Senior Member Citizen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Now for the real kicker. While I was checking things at the engine, I noticed a lot of heat coming up. Funny with everything running so cool. Then I saw it, the exhaust chamber on the driver's side of the engine was glowing red. I've seen exhaust manifolds glow when they were worked hard, but this was just idling. I sware they were translucent.

    So my new theory is the exhaust is somewhat plugged. Hot exhaust does come out of both pipes, so I'm not sure.

    Anybody have experience like this?
    I think if you have normal exhaust flow and the engine seems to run normally, it is not likely your exhaust system is plugged.

    If the engine is extremely hot, but the temp gauge is normal, and the temperature of the hoses near the radiator are normal, doesn't this indicate a failed cooling system (no coolant flow or low coolant level, air in the system)?

    ...
    Last edited by Citizen; 02-27-2021 at 08:31 AM.
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  10. #10
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    Besides the other suggestions on things to work on, you can at least reliably test the electrical function of the cooling fans without the engine running. So that you can see if they work or not before trying to do it with the engine getting hot.

    The fans will come on either because the otterstat (aka coolant temperature switch) tells them to or the A/C compressor is on (the fans will run anytime the compressor clutch is engaged). The easiest way is to jumper the leads that connect to the otterstat. With those connected, the fans will come on and stay on. And you can do this by only needing to have the ignition key turned to accessories (i.e. you do not need to start the engine).

    Do this and then without any risk to your engine temperatures, go back around the front and look or feel what the fans are doing. It should be pretty obvious because they are not the quietest set of fans you'll ever see.

    More info on the otterstat here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10...l=1#post166051


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

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