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Thread: Drove the Delorean for the first time.

  1. #31
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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    The valve you hear buzzing is the frequency valve located on the right side valve cover. The cold start valve in on the left side on the air pipe. You may have to adjust the mixture valve but before you touch it there are some things you must check. We have to assume the mixture is close because the car did run before (way before when it got parked) and the mixture screw hasn't been touched yet, has it? There is a procedure to rough adjust the mixture screw where you just shut off the fuel injectors with the air sensor plate at rest, motor off. It is a rough adjustment because a TINY adjustment makes a HUGE effect. Once you get the motor to run and idle you can do a more accurate adjustment but everything else must be perfect to do it right. The mixture adjustment cannot compensate for anything not working correctly.
    David Teitelbaum

  2. #32
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Oh boy.

    First you heard the frequency valve. Pull the CSV and lay it on a rag. Try cranking it cold and the rag should be soaked with fuel(or if the engine is warm swap the plugs with the WUR). If neither work then see if you are getting voltage at the plug.

    I doubt the mixture is the problem as it ran fine before it started loosing power and failing to idle. You need to dive into full diagnostic mode and that includes checking the ignition side. You could have a cracked dist cap or bad rotor or it's very possible all the varnish in your lines has clogged up the new fuel filter. You need a dwell meter or multi meter to set the mixture and it has to be running in closed loop to set it. I think there is a way to get it close by jumping the fuel pump and pulling a injector or 2. I wouldn't focus on the mixture though.

  3. #33
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    PS, the OE fuel pumps suck ass. There just aren't any good ones since Bosch outsourced the manufacturing. I got 50 miles out of my last OE pump before going to the newer cross referenced pump modules.

    Something tells me that you will be replacing the FD and WUR and while you are there you really need to get those OE fuel lines out of there. You will be bending a lot of them pulling and testing injectors and such.

  4. #34
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    First, I don't know about the fecquency thing, but the start valve was vibrating.

    In any case, I pulled an injector, jumped the fuel and started turning mixture. I would adjust it 1/2 a turn and then push down the plate till the fuel sprayed. Repeat. I probably made two full turns before I got it to spray when the plate was 1/8" down. Put it all back together and hit the starter.

    Woohoo!

    Started right up and idled. Revved it a couple times and seems to run normal. I didn't drive it yet because I have a couple leaks at banjo bolts. Also I'm nearly out of gas. I'm going in to town to try to get some new copper washers and some fresh gas.

    But I'm feeling confident I finally got it. Let's hold that feeling. Ha-ha.

  5. #35
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    First, I don't know about the fecquency thing, but the start valve was vibrating.

    In any case, I pulled an injector, jumped the fuel and started turning mixture. I would adjust it 1/2 a turn and then push down the plate till the fuel sprayed. Repeat. I probably made two full turns before I got it to spray when the plate was 1/8" down. Put it all back together and hit the starter.

    Woohoo!

    Started right up and idled. Revved it a couple times and seems to run normal. I didn't drive it yet because I have a couple leaks at banjo bolts. Also I'm nearly out of gas. I'm going in to town to try to get some new copper washers and some fresh gas.

    But I'm feeling confident I finally got it. Let's hold that feeling. Ha-ha.
    Once it goes into closed loop, you can get that mixture dialed in but also be aware it's very possible that by adjusting the mixture, you are just compensating for another issue such as a vacuum leak. 2 full turns is almost hard to believe.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Once it goes into closed loop, you can get that mixture dialed in but also be aware it's very possible that by adjusting the mixture, you are just compensating for another issue such as a vacuum leak. 2 full turns is almost hard to believe.
    Yea, I don't understand. Maybe the guy I bought it from was screwing with it. Can't hear any vacuum leak, but I need to trace it all out. I couldn't go driving today because of the fuel leaks. Of course I can't find copper washers that size. I'll have to order them online.

    Exactly what is the construction of the current fuel lines? There seems to be a soft rubber outer sleeve. I haven't pulled it back because I think I will wreck it. Is it just a heavy rubber inside? Do they start cracking or something with age? I believe my leak is from one banjo bolt seal, but it seems like the fuel is traveling in the outer sleeve to the other end.

  7. #37
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Yea, I don't understand. Maybe the guy I bought it from was screwing with it. Can't hear any vacuum leak, but I need to trace it all out. I couldn't go driving today because of the fuel leaks. Of course I can't find copper washers that size. I'll have to order them online.

    Exactly what is the construction of the current fuel lines? There seems to be a soft rubber outer sleeve. I haven't pulled it back because I think I will wreck it. Is it just a heavy rubber inside? Do they start cracking or something with age? I believe my leak is from one banjo bolt seal, but it seems like the fuel is traveling in the outer sleeve to the other end.
    More than a few DeLoreans have burnt to the ground due to fuel leaks and the biggest culprit is failed fuel lines. The OE lines are a polymer plastic designed for fuel systems wrapped in a rubber sleeve but I don't think anyone expected them last 40 years. Considering the CIS runs with 65-70psi over hot manifolds, the lines failing is almost a certain fire situation. From what you described, the line may already be leaking as a banjo fitting leak should be easy to see....especially if it's large enough to travel the length of a fuel line to the other end. I would not let this car idle for long until I did a complete braided line replacement with new seals. Might be a good idea to replaces the rubber injector seals too and get some clips as you will probably damage a few getting them out.

  8. #38
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    This is the line kit I didn't get but wish I had. If Josh took Paypal I would be buying a lot more from him.

    https://deloreanindustries.com/delor...tion-line-set/
    Last edited by Michael; 02-28-2021 at 09:05 PM.

  9. #39
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    My VIN:    03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car

    DeloreanGo has nice fuel line kits as well. They also have the vented rotor kit you mentioned before plus other goodies.



    Don't get me wrong, Josh sells quality kit too...

  10. #40
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTait View Post
    DeloreanGo has nice fuel line kits as well. They also have the vented rotor kit you mentioned before plus other goodies.



    Don't get me wrong, Josh sells quality kit too...
    I got the Deloreango kit. I was not crazy about the fitment.

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