The previous owner of my car installed a yellow top Optima battery about 3 years ago. I haven't had any problems with it so far.
The previous owner of my car installed a yellow top Optima battery about 3 years ago. I haven't had any problems with it so far.
I just replaced mine with a Champion brand from Pep Boys. The battery that was in the car when I bought it was a cheap one not to mention incorrect size/spec, but it worked fine and lasted more than 6 years. I drive my car regularly so that probably helps too.
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I run A sealed AMG battery in mine. I forget the name but its supposed to be made in the USA has some dumb name like "Entimidator " I bought it from a local battery shop Bend Battery . Really good people great warranty they replaced it at no cost when it failed days before the warranty ran out.
Battery only failed be my delorean shop ran the battery totally flat.
Alex Brooks
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The *best* battery is one that is not too expensive, will last at least 5 years, is the proper size, and is a national brand. If you are traveling, have battery trouble, and have a battery you bought that is not a national brand they will not pro-rate the old battery. I used to buy Sears because there was always one wherever you went. Interstate is a good brand, at least here in the Northeast. Very popular and most shops will pro-rate a bad one. They are a decent quality and if you don't abuse it by letting it go "flat", use the proper hold-down hardware, and keep the terminals clean, it will last a long time. The main key to keeping a lead-acid battery lasting a long time is to always keep it fully charged. Draining all of the electric out of it shortens it's life dramatically. They also don't usually fail unexpectedly like the sealed, gel cell type batteries like the Optimas. The ordinary lead-acid batteries usually give you some advance warning before dying completely. Use a battery tender to keep the battery fully charged when you are not using the car.
David Teitelbaum
I'm happy with the batteries I buy from a locally owned business and made in the USA and they will replace the battery free of charge if it fails inside the warranty period or just outside. I don't feel bad paying a little more for a tag that says made in the USA. if 200 dollars-ish for a new battery on the road is gonna make or break a trip you probably should have stayed home.
Alex Brooks
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 476
My VIN: 4099
Club(s): (PNDC)
For my regular cars, I've always gotten the cheapest lead acid battery I could find and then replace every 5 years. After that, it wasn't worth the risk for me to be stuck somewhere needing a jump start. Just replace as preventative maintenance and be done with it. However for my D, I go with a good quality AGM (not Optima). Being inside the car, a sealed battery that doesn't outgas seems like a really good idea. My previous AGM was a Diehard Platinum which I believe was made by Odyssey at the time. That lasted nearly 10 years. Keep in mind I don't use a battery cutoff switch so it's always in the process of being drained (I fixed the high standby current items in the D so it could go weeks between starts with no issues). I knew it was dying as the car started to crank slower after even just a week of being parked.
I'm currently running an AutoZone Duralast PlatinumAGM for the last few years now. No issues yet for what it's worth. Otherwise if you have the money, an Odyssey battery seems like a good way to go as well.
Posts: 448
Are AGM batteries available with just the side connectors? In other words, without the combination top and side.
Ron
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 476
My VIN: 4099
Club(s): (PNDC)
This is the one I'm currently running from Autozone which has side posts only:
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...cca/319462_0_0
My previous one had top posts as well, but I just kept the plastic caps on it. Being inside a fiberglass box, I wasn't worried about those posts somehow shorting out.
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,087
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Nothing wrong with running an AGM in a D, only keep in mind that the car was designed to use a standard "maintenance free" (non-AGM) battery.
The normal issue of battery outgassing was addressed in the design; the car's battery compartment is directly vented to atmosphere in back.
Here is the part that does that. Check the lower inboard area of the rt rear wheel well to find it.
By the way, even a "sealed" or AGM battery can outgas. They're fitted with a pressure relief valve that vents excess hydrogen in case of a charging system malfunction. Normally they don't outgas.
So you can't lose either way.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,583
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
While you *can* use an AGM or gel cell type battery, the voltage regulator inside the alternator was not designed to properly charge them. One reason that don't last as long as they should. The voltage regulator modifies the output based on engine speed, system voltage and load, AND ambient temperature. Not the same profile for a lead-acid battery and an AGM. If you are worried about a battery all you have to do is carry a portable jump pack. The newest ones are very small and very powerful and even if you don't need it, chances are you will find someone who will and it is much better and safer to give a jump with a battery pack than off of the car's electrical system.
David Teitelbaum