New project car - need help with small block Chevy 4.3L 1975 carbed Monza engine

[TTait]

Hi guys,

The Delorean is fairly stable these days - so I'm turning some of my attention to a 1975 Chevy Monza with a 4.3 Liter small block and 2 barrel carb. The H body community doesn't have a lot of info on this engine and I wonder if any of my old friends here have experience with 70's era small blocks.

The car runs but much of the engine controls were stripped back. I'm trying to restore the vacuum system - get the choke working, etc. Trying to make new friends on the new board - but I'd be silly not to ask you guys too. Danny already helped me sort getting a proper fuel pump figured out so this community is still a big go-to resource.

Its funny how different things are in a community where we all have nearly identical cars - Its a lot harder when dealing with the Chevy which had so many different configurations and likely fewer existing cars today - certainly fewer unmolested examples. It reminds me I need to thank you all for the years of support and guidance you have all given. This is a great resource only because of the people here. Thank you all.

[DMCMW Dave]

Can't help you much other than to say that I owned that exact car - 1975 Monza V8 / 4 speed. Easily the worst car I've ever owned. Imagine a 262 CI engine that made 110 horsepower.

That was a first year catalytic converter car. Engine controls were pretty primitive. Funny thing I don't recall much trouble with the engine, but the really awful setup was the cable-operated clutch. I had the firewall crack where the cable attached to it, and had to repair it with a piece of angle steel from a bed frame (I wasn't much of a mechanic in 1978 ). I also replaced the entire inside-the-car clutch linkage with one from a later model Monza due to much improved geometry. The original setup had a huge plastic wheel that the cable pulled over. The later design pulled the cable directly thru the firewall.

Also the door hinges were shot by the time the car was a couple years old.

BTW this was the car that was notorious at the time for needed the engine to be lifted to change a couple of the spark plugs. Not as bad as is sounds, I recall just jacking up the car, taking out the motor mount bolts from underneath, stacking a bunch of 2x4s under the engine, and then lowering the car down enough that the engine came up for clearance.

[Ron]

Back in the day Motors manuals were excellent, but even they didn't have a vacuum diagram!? I just looked.

[TTait]

I've ordered documentation - but I have to wait for snail mail.

Fortunately Dave, My car is going to be totally different - I've got the automatic, and for whatever reason this car doesn't seem to have a cat underneath so nothing is going to give me any grief at all!

45 years on I do detect some give in the door hinges, but mostly the car is solid. It has a little surface rust here and there, not enough to tempt me to send it out to have it all sandblasted. I'll let it keep its patina and just stop the Flakes where they have started. This isn't a car to restore, for me - preservation will be just fine.

I thought this evening I would see if new Schrader valves would revive the AC - it had 2 lbs of residual pressure and holds vacuum to 10 lbs,- so I thought maybe new o rings and valves might get me there. I just pulled out the first valve - well half of the valve. The plunger and spring came out but half the valve is still in there - so now I need to figure that one out...

yep, no grief at all...

[DMCMW Dave]

Looky what I found. Is this any help?

1980 Chilton manual. I never throw away manuals.

Monza103112021.pdf

[TTait]

It does help. The 75 uses the same EFE on the small block, but I had no idea what it was or what to hook it up to - thank you!

Hoping the service guide I bought on Ebay shows up soon.

Best part of this car so far is that it makes the Delorean seem fast and like it has killer acceleration!

[DMCMW Dave]

Chilton manuals typically covered 5 years of cars. I was cheap so I bought a 75, 80, 86 etc. They are kind of high level leaving a lot to the imagination. But it was about all there was, and no youtube videos!

[TTait]

Working on restoring the in-tank fuel pump and level sender. I've got the level sender rebuilt - and a fuel pump on the way.

The question I have is that the oem setup was pretty tired and I've got to replace the insulated straps that supplied wiring for fuel pump with traditional wires. This isn't like the Delorean where the top of the pump stays dry - this pump is at the bottom of the tank and fully submerged.

I find it disturbingly quiet on the internet on the topic of in-tank wiring. There are a few threads where people ask about gasoline resistant wire insulation and someone has answered by suggesting expensive military spec wire, but I haven't come across any horror stories, or photos of burned up cars or pictures of failed projects where the insulation has melted off after 24 months, which leads me to believe that standard automotive hook up wire is likely just fine.

None of the major sites I checked selling in-tank pumps are selling wiring kits with approved wire. I can't find wire or warnings on manufacturers sites I've visited. If it was a problem - wouldn't I be seeing warnings everywhere?

Tom

[DMC-Ron]

My understanding is PTFE insulation is resistant to lubricants and fuels. Unfortunately I don't find a specific reference relating to fuel pump wiring submersed in gasoline.
Ron