Drivers front and rear indicator lights not working, but hazards do.

[dmcerik]

Today I remembered that the right turn signal indicator bulb in the binnacle doesn't light up when I put my turn signal on. And I also noticed the left indicator light in the binnacle stays on while the headlights are on. I've been meaning to replace all the binnacle bulbs to LED anyways so I decided to go in and remove the binnacle, replace the lights (minus fuel and battery), and see what new issues I see.

1. The green lights aren't illuminating. So left turn signal, right turn signal, headlights. Those don't illuminate at all in the binnacle now.
2. My front drivers indicator now works properly (weird)
3. My passenger rear turn signal still stays illuminated when it shouldn't...but now the drivers indicator has joined in on the fun.

Is is possible the binnacle lights are causing my issues? I removed the binnacle again and made sure things are clean for those green lights. All looks clean, but I do notice the printed circuit has dents and scrapes. And I'm wondering if maybe I need a new one. https://store.delorean.com/105851-in...d-circuit.html

Any new thoughts?

[DMC-Ron]

I had a quick 10min break between meetings so I ran into the garage to test the front drivers turn signal socket. You know, the old "wiggle the bulb and see what happens" trick. With enough wiggling at just the right angle I was able to get the bulb to turn on properly. It doesn't behave properly if I'm not wiggling it (don't laugh).

I tried using contact cleaner and some mini files to try and clean things up, but can't seem to make it any better. Unless someone has a sure way of cleaning these sockets, looks like I'll just buy a new harness.

Erik,
cut off some scotchbright pad. Get the purple version if you can find it. You need to cut it to about 1/2" by 2" size. Use contact cleaner or brake cleaner. Soak the pad, insert in the socket, and rotate (please don't use steel wool). That should clean out the socket. I'm assuming you have a new 1157 LED bulb. Many times the solder contact points at the base of the new LED bulbs are too pointed. Often they need to be "flattened" slightly with a flat file. Put the file down on a flat work bench and flatten the contacts by holding the bulb upright and moving its base back and forth on the file. It doesn't take much and it's better to use a finer file rather than a course one. Once the contacts are flattened, clean off any filings. Now pay attention to the offset bayonets on the bulb base. The lower one goes in the longer socket slot. Don't force. With the connections filed, the bulb should turn and seat easily. Sometimes the socket is just too far gone, but this procedure will often revitalize a pretty crusty one.

Ron

[Ron]

Today I remembered that the right turn signal indicator bulb in the binnacle doesn't light up when I put my turn signal on. And I also noticed the left indicator light in the binnacle stays on while the headlights are on. I've been meaning to replace all the binnacle bulbs to LED anyways so I decided to go in and remove the binnacle, replace the lights (minus fuel and battery), and see what new issues I see.

1. The green lights aren't illuminating. So left turn signal, right turn signal, headlights. Those don't illuminate at all in the binnacle now.
2. My front drivers indicator now works properly (weird)
3. My passenger rear turn signal still stays illuminated when it shouldn't...but now the drivers indicator has joined in on the fun.

Is is possible the binnacle lights are causing my issues? I removed the binnacle again and made sure things are clean for those green lights. All looks clean, but I do notice the printed circuit has dents and scrapes. And I'm wondering if maybe I need a new one. https://store.delorean.com/105851-in...d-circuit.html

Any new thoughts?

A bad printed circuit itself might cause bulbs in the binnacle to not come on. But, if the printed circuit's traces aren't loose and shorting, it can't cause any bulbs (anywhere) to come on when they shouldn't. Installing the printed circuit's plug on crooked might.

RE:"2. My front drivers indicator now works properly (weird)"
Seems like it was working all along from the pics and vid???
Did you mean position light (parking light)?
Maybe I'm confused because everyone is using different or mixed naming conventions. I suggest we use those used on the schematic (Left, Right, Front, Rear; Blinker, Position, Tail, Hazard, Marker).
...just MHO.

I strongly suggest replacing ALL LEDs with incandescent bulbs as Michael suggested (including those you added in the binnacle).

[MrChocky]

A bad printed circuit itself might cause bulbs in the binnacle to not come on. But, if the printed circuit's traces aren't loose and shorting, it can't cause any bulbs (anywhere) to come on when they shouldn't. Installing the printed circuit's plug on crooked might.

RE:"2. My front drivers indicator now works properly (weird)"
Seems like it was working all along from the pics and vid???
Did you mean position light (parking light)?
Maybe I'm confused because everyone is using different or mixed naming conventions. I suggest we use those used on the schematic (Left, Right, Front, Rear; Blinker, Position, Tail, Hazard, Marker).
...just MHO.

As usual, when you disturb "old" stuff, you end up causing other problems, and this is what happened in my case. I ended up having to replace the circuit board, because of
the poor condition of the connectors.

I strongly suggest replacing ALL LEDs with incandescent bulbs as Michael suggested (including those you added in the binnacle).

All apart from the battery light! This needs to stay incandescent or the battery may not charge. Ask me how I know.

[Ron]

As usual, when you disturb "old" stuff, you end up causing other problems, and this is what happened in my case. I ended up having to replace the circuit board, because of the poor condition of the connectors.

Yep. On the first one I worked on the connectors separated from the film. Fortunately, I got away with super gluing them back down before they broke off...bend them two or three times and you are SOL.

All apart from the battery light! This needs to stay incandescent or the battery may not charge. Ask me how I know.

I think you took me wrong...I was saying change them all back to incandescent (for troubleshooting the existing problem(s)).
That reminds me, I meant to mention not being concerned about a LED for the fuel light but forgot...getin' too old for this $hit.

[dmcerik]

*RESOLVED*

Where to even begin. How about a big lesson learned. Before doing a full LED replacement project, document the function of all the lights you plan to replace. Document their current state so you know what is and isn't working properly before you replace everything.

In my case I had a few different issues going into the project.
1. Some of my instrument cluster lights didn't work. Like my right turn signal light.
2. My front drivers position was not functional before the project due to corrosion in the socket and connector.

What I found out was that my car hates LED 1157 bulbs.

Issues
1. Rear passenger turn signal bulb would stay lit when the headlights were on. This was because the front passenger LED was making it stay on. And, when I replace the instrument cluster lights to be LED, the right turn signal light in the instrument cluster stayed on when the headlamps were on. Replacing the LED 1157 with a normal 1157 fixed all of that.
2. Front drivers position light would not come on, but it would work as a blinker. Cleaning the socket out fixed that issue, but then I began to have the same issue as Issue #1. Replacing the LED 1157 with a normal 1157 fixed the issue.

Right now all of my lights in the car work as designed. Everything is LED, including headlights and high beams...EXCEPT those 1157 bulbs. Those are not LED anymore.

Thanks for all the help. Now...it's time for a beer.