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Thread: Major Oil Leak (from where???)

  1. #11
    Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Posts:    35

    SUCCESS!

    The oil leaking was definitely from the transmission, and 99% sure it was my installation method of the input shaft seal that caused the problem.

    #RTFM

    decouple the shaft, install seal, recouple shaft, tap tube on the seal.

    Took it for a spirited drive yesterday, back on the lift and dry as a bone under the car.

  2. #12
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Did you tighten the allen bolts that go into the block all the way before you tightened the two that come up from the bottom? If you did that will leave a gap at the bottom mating surface that won't seal. Did you use anaerobic sealer on the bottom flange surface (no gasket there)?
    Hi Dave,

    When you mention the allen bolts, are you talking about the bolts that hold part # 102023, the bracket that the actual rear main seal is in, to the lower crankcase? I see there's a gasket between those the bracket and the crankcase. The shop manual doesn't say anything about changing that thin gasket in the section that discusses changing the rear main seal so I would never have known this detail. Any other details you can provide would be great since I think I have a small oil leak in that area that I'll address one of these days.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  3. #13
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Taylors SC

    Posts:    5,326

    My VIN:    (former)05429

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    Hi Dave,

    When you mention the allen bolts, are you talking about the bolts that hold part # 102023, the bracket that the actual rear main seal is in, to the lower crankcase? I see there's a gasket between those the bracket and the crankcase. The shop manual doesn't say anything about changing that thin gasket in the section that discusses changing the rear main seal so I would never have known this detail. Any other details you can provide would be great since I think I have a small oil leak in that area that I'll address one of these days.
    I suppose you could replace the rear main seal and leave that plate in place, but since in my experience the allen screws are often not much more than finger tight you definitely want to take it apart and do it correctly. It's also a lot easier to change the seal on the bench than on the car.

    If you buy a whole clutch kit it comes with the rear main seal and that paper gasket.

    The only other "trick" is that the paper gasket is make longer on the open ends than it needs to be. You are supposed to match it to the plate and trim the ends off with a razor blade. Use sealant (anaerobic) on the paper and on the bottom non-gasketed surface.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  4. #14
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Thanks Dave. Quick follow up. When should one use anaerobic sealant versus hylomar? What's the difference and what is the application? I'm getting back into some restoration this year and trying to brush up.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  5. #15
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Location:  North GA

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  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Belfast

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    Quote Originally Posted by fmj78 View Post
    SUCCESS!

    The oil leaking was definitely from the transmission, and 99% sure it was my installation method of the input shaft seal that caused the problem.

    #RTFM

    decouple the shaft, install seal, recouple shaft, tap tube on the seal.

    Took it for a spirited drive yesterday, back on the lift and dry as a bone under the car.


    Hi there - I have the same issue, did you need to split the gearbox to replace that lip seal?

    I think I need this O-ring 103103, and the lip seal 103177

    Cheers

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