Delphi Fuel Pump DFG0089 & Hardware replacement

[Beachdrifter]

I just installed the pump and clamped it down. For the plastic quick disconnect fittings, I push them in and they "click" into place. However is it normal that you can still have some freeplay in the connector to where it still can rotate around? Just curious because they are in but can still be moved.

Thanks

Randy

[Michael]

I just installed the pump and clamped it down. For the plastic quick disconnect fittings, I push them in and they "click" into place. However is it normal that you can still have some freeplay in the connector to where it still can rotate around? Just curious because they are in but can still be moved.

Thanks

Randy

Yes it is normal. Still you will want to leave the cover off and run for some time to make sure there are no leaks as well as after stopping the engine, check after about 30 minutes as the system will still be under pressure so you may see any small leaks.

[dmcman73]

I just installed the pump and clamped it down. For the plastic quick disconnect fittings, I push them in and they "click" into place. However is it normal that you can still have some freeplay in the connector to where it still can rotate around? Just curious because they are in but can still be moved.

Thanks

Randy

Yes, it's normal that they can rotate. As long as they click when you popped them on, you're good.

[MacStainless]

Correct the top seal is different than the one that seals the hole. Since I tell people to buy the pump at AutoZone so you get a lifetime warranty. I don’t want to cut the locator tab off the pump in case a smart employee notices during a warranty exchange. The top seal I use allows the tab to remain intact.

You can save some money doing the job yourself. The AC Delco Mu1777 is what I use. It is the same pump as the Delphi. I believe Delphi makes parts for GM. Anyhow my kit costs $75 and comes with everything you need to set it up. You need to have a working sender or buy Dave’s pump logic box. When AutoZone has an online 25% off coupon the pump comes to like $150.

What’s in the kit and how does one order it? I may need to re-do my fuel system in the coming week or so.

[Beachdrifter]

Hi all,

I have to say this has been a very informative thread. Thank you to all who chimed in!!
The least I can do now is report back.

The pump is in, all hooked up, heard the pump prime with a much more pleasing buzz than the old one, and car started right up!!

A few of my observations:

Good riddance, gone with the old!!!
FUELPUMP2.jpg

In with the new Delphi Pump -- great addition:
FUELPUMP1.jpg


My observations on the Delphi Pump:

1. Initially it took me a few tries to seat the pump in and get the V-Clamp to hold it down. I did end up buying a 4in Vclamp from Walker #35805. My first attempts were not that great, i felt that the lower part of the clamp was not actually engaging the tank even after maxing out the tightening to where the clamp would not go no more. The pump ended popping back out. My second try i made especially sure that the pump was pushed in as far as possible and flush with the gasket as much as possible, I also made a slight spacer of weather stripping rubber to fit in the "v groove" of the clap to help the clamp grip the rim of the pump more. It did that time and held the pump in, I can also shake the car a bit if I try to move the pump from side to side. I guess that is "tight enough" just to keep the pump in place, because needless to say if I actually use my whole strength I can probably still pull the pump out by force even with the clamp on. I figure with the spare tire on it and the force the clamp already has, that the pump should stay in place .

Any other observations on this? First time using this style clamp on anything.

2. The Delphi pump has the sender arm pointing the opposite direction; the way it swings would by default cause your gauge to read F when in fact it is L, and vice versa, as compared to the DMCH pump/sender combo unit. So I went ahead and reversed the bend of the sender unit that goes into the pump 180 degrees, and played with the rest of the metal rod to where it would be a nice shape and not exceed too far out to where it would catch the ground wire in the tank.

The thing is I still have a good sender unit which is the aftermarket Delorean.com unit. It works fine, but I went ahead and set the pump up with the sender unit in the event I go upgrade later. I figure the pump sender unit will be more accurate than the default unit since the Delorean.com unit seems to read more in 1/4ths at a time.
I'll tinker with that later and work to get maybe Dave's sender ECU unit.

Here is a great link, maybe from someone already here LOL, that explained the positioning of the sender arm. I went ahead and used this to leave it setup and ready .. LOL, i hope I did it right!

http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs...nt-temperature

3. After I started the car, I left it running for about 15 mins. There were no leaks at the pump or disconnects. I did notice a slight leak to my feed line at the hard line barb that goes into the car, so I just tightened the clamp down a few more turns and it stopped. The only thing I can attest to this is that maybe moving the lines around I disturbed the seal or perhaps this new pump has a slightly higher pressure than the old one and caused the initial small leak.

I'll keep it uncovered and check it a few hours overall to see if everything it good then I will start it again and patch it all up.

4. Oh and I did cut off that annoying tab on the rim, and a few on the top of the pump that might interfere with the spare wheel cover.

5. Also, I did not know this until now, but right above the pump on the bulkhead you will notice a hole, that hole is the drain from the windshield where all the rain water flushes down... conveniently on the pump and connector!! You can make some sort of gutter cover right in front of it from plastic to divert the splash of water away from the pump. I did so and now the water will run more along the bulkhead than splash right on the pump.



Overall I am very much happy with this setup, don't know why I didn't do it years ago!! I guess it took some annoying buzzing from a hot day of driving to make me realize it was time for this old pump to go.

Again, thanks everyone!!

--Randy

[Michael]

I noticed you said you tightened a clamp down to stop a leak. I don't know what clamps you are using but you may want to consider using fuel line clamps. It sounds like you are using hose clamps.

I absolutely love my pump option. I completely revamped the fuel system last year and I didn't make it 50 miles on a BRAND NEW oe pump and this was on a mild night and with me insulating the tank to boot!. Once I got my new pump in place, it has been perfect no matter what the ambient temps. I will caution to pay close attention to your fuel gauge as these tanks do not have a low cavity for a pump like this to sit in so empty really means empty.

[dmcman73]

Hi all,

I have to say this has been a very informative thread. Thank you to all who chimed in!!
The least I can do now is report back.

The pump is in, all hooked up, heard the pump prime with a much more pleasing buzz than the old one, and car started right up!!

A few of my observations:

Good riddance, gone with the old!!!
FUELPUMP2.jpg

In with the new Delphi Pump -- great addition:
FUELPUMP1.jpg


My observations on the Delphi Pump:

1. Initially it took me a few tries to seat the pump in and get the V-Clamp to hold it down. I did end up buying a 4in Vclamp from Walker #35805. My first attempts were not that great, i felt that the lower part of the clamp was not actually engaging the tank even after maxing out the tightening to where the clamp would not go no more. The pump ended popping back out. My second try i made especially sure that the pump was pushed in as far as possible and flush with the gasket as much as possible, I also made a slight spacer of weather stripping rubber to fit in the "v groove" of the clap to help the clamp grip the rim of the pump more. It did that time and held the pump in, I can also shake the car a bit if I try to move the pump from side to side. I guess that is "tight enough" just to keep the pump in place, because needless to say if I actually use my whole strength I can probably still pull the pump out by force even with the clamp on. I figure with the spare tire on it and the force the clamp already has, that the pump should stay in place .

Any other observations on this? First time using this style clamp on anything.

2. The Delphi pump has the sender arm pointing the opposite direction; the way it swings would by default cause your gauge to read F when in fact it is L, and vice versa, as compared to the DMCH pump/sender combo unit. So I went ahead and reversed the bend of the sender unit that goes into the pump 180 degrees, and played with the rest of the metal rod to where it would be a nice shape and not exceed too far out to where it would catch the ground wire in the tank.

The thing is I still have a good sender unit which is the aftermarket Delorean.com unit. It works fine, but I went ahead and set the pump up with the sender unit in the event I go upgrade later. I figure the pump sender unit will be more accurate than the default unit since the Delorean.com unit seems to read more in 1/4ths at a time.
I'll tinker with that later and work to get maybe Dave's sender ECU unit.

Here is a great link, maybe from someone already here LOL, that explained the positioning of the sender arm. I went ahead and used this to leave it setup and ready .. LOL, i hope I did it right!

http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs...nt-temperature

3. After I started the car, I left it running for about 15 mins. There were no leaks at the pump or disconnects. I did notice a slight leak to my feed line at the hard line barb that goes into the car, so I just tightened the clamp down a few more turns and it stopped. The only thing I can attest to this is that maybe moving the lines around I disturbed the seal or perhaps this new pump has a slightly higher pressure than the old one and caused the initial small leak.

I'll keep it uncovered and check it a few hours overall to see if everything it good then I will start it again and patch it all up.

4. Oh and I did cut off that annoying tab on the rim, and a few on the top of the pump that might interfere with the spare wheel cover.

5. Also, I did not know this until now, but right above the pump on the bulkhead you will notice a hole, that hole is the drain from the windshield where all the rain water flushes down... conveniently on the pump and connector!! You can make some sort of gutter cover right in front of it from plastic to divert the splash of water away from the pump. I did so and now the water will run more along the bulkhead than splash right on the pump.



Overall I am very much happy with this setup, don't know why I didn't do it years ago!! I guess it took some annoying buzzing from a hot day of driving to make me realize it was time for this old pump to go.

Again, thanks everyone!!

--Randy

For the leak around the fuel line to the barb: Did you use a razor to cut the old line off the barb? If so, you may have nicked it with the blade causing the leak as well.

For the fuel sender, I know Dave McKeen made a fuel sender ECU for the Tahoe one that I think takes the orientation of the sender in account, his ECU is fully programmable so you can calibrate it for F and E.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Because our tank has a very small rib on the pump hole, The V clamp does not pull the pump down tight. It just holds it where you push is down. I thought about machining the proper shaped ring to attach to the tank but never got around to it. With my pump the seal was very tight. I sanded any imperfection off the inside opening on the tank and was finally able to seat the pump with a lot of downward force.

[Beachdrifter]

Thanks for the feedback on the barb and vclamp. I've checked the car and everything looks good.

As for that little leak, I guess it was more of an annoyance than anything, it stopped. The clamp i was using is for fuel lines. The only hose I replaced was my return line because it was initially too short. I left my feed line in since it still looked good and didn't want to mess with it.

I can't say for sure if the barb is damaged or not. But since the little dribble stopped after tightening it down a few more turns until no more it hasn't leaked again.

When it comes time to remove the feed line to replace in the future, I will take care removing it and inspect closer.
Maybe this pump seems to have a bit more "umph" than my tired 8 yr old oe pump.


Randy

[dmcman73]

Because our tank has a very small rib on the pump hole, The V clamp does not pull the pump down tight. It just holds it where you push is down. I thought about machining the proper shaped ring to attach to the tank but never got around to it. With my pump the seal was very tight. I sanded any imperfection off the inside opening on the tank and was finally able to seat the pump with a lot of downward force.

I was going to do the same thing except 3D print a ring from Carbon fiber and epoxy it to the neck.