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Thread: Coolant change with vacuum evacuator

  1. #11
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    Michael, did you end up performing this task with the vacuum technique? Anything to share on the process unique for a DeLorean? Planning on doing this myself this spring when the car comes out of hibernation.
    I did not because I wanted to replace some hoses. I am 100% confident it would work. I'm sure there would be a small amount of air to take out but not enough to lock the system up, (if that's even possible given the return side is larger) but doing it the old fashioned was not that hard. I will use a evac unit next time though.
    http://dmctalk.org/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=90&dateline=161808992  9

  2. #12
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Even though our cars were built in Northern Ireland with an assortment of British, French, and American sourced parts, I have found that the Swedish made coolant vacuum evacuators work best, and are of the highest quality. The rated vacuum capacity is second to none, and the actuator pumps require the fewest number of cycles to build vacuum quickly and efficiently.




    I recommend this type shown here:




    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Doing it the old fashioned way was not that hard. I will use a evac unit next time though.
    Yes, the old fashioned way definitely also works.
    Last edited by Mark D; 03-28-2022 at 11:16 PM.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    I did not because I wanted to replace some hoses. I am 100% confident it would work. I'm sure there would be a small amount of air to take out but not enough to lock the system up, (if that's even possible given the return side is larger) but doing it the old fashioned was not that hard. I will use a evac unit next time though.
    Thanks. Concerned about that last bit of air. I'll give it a try.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    Thanks. Concerned about that last bit of air. I'll give it a try.
    I used the vacuum fill not to long ago and it worked very well. Here is what I did and my setup:

    1. I do have a self bleeder on the thermostat housing to the header bottle, I left the valve I have on it open during the vacuum and fill
    2. I vacuumed the coolant system out to the recommended vacuum bar stated in the instructions
    3. I let the system sit for 15 minutes (or whatever the time listed in the instructions) to see if the pressure would rise substantially which would indicate a leak
    4. When I filled the system, I placed the fill tube on the vacuum tool into a 1 gallon bucket and I filled the bucket with coolant. I then opened the valve on the tool to have it start drawing coolant from the bucket into the cooling system.
    5. As the coolant in the 1 gallon bucket went low, I kept topping it off by filling it with more coolant. This allowed me to keep filling the system constantly without having the turn the valve off on the vacuum filler tool, remove the fill tube from the empty coolant container it came in and insert it into a new coolant bottle and re-open the valve again. Doing it that way does introduce air into the system. If you do it with the 1 gallon bucket and keep filling it with coolant none stop until the system is filled, it will be faster and not introduce any air.

    Once completed, just clean everything up and run the engine and always check for drips.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmcman73 View Post
    1. I do have a self bleeder on the thermostat housing to the header bottle, I left the valve I have on it open during the vacuum and fill

    Thank you. I don't have a self-bleeder.

    Never had any problems with cooling in the past, and don't want to create any for myself which is why I'm being cautious here.

  6. #16
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    Thank you. I don't have a self-bleeder.
    $.02

    Air Bleed Hose1.jpg
    Air Bleed Hose 2.jpg

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Thanks. Got it. Put a valve in that line and I got myself a bleeder or connect/re-connect as needed.

  8. #18
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    Thanks. Got it. Put a valve in that line and I got myself a bleeder or connect/re-connect as needed.
    The "connect/re-connect" port is at the tank-cap...it already self/auto bleeds (on level ground).
    Vacs are great when it comes to controlling the mess. Yet I don't see it helping with air in the system since the stock system takes care of air itself. From what I've seen here, if it isn't maintenance, it's not keeping the reservoir full while the thermostat cycles a few times when first filling the system.
    (When cleaning or flushing, I always try to drain from the lowest point, which calls for a lot of catch pans instead.)

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    The "connect/re-connect" port is at the tank-cap...it already self/auto bleeds (on level ground).
    Vacs are great when it comes to controlling the mess. Yet I don't see it helping with air in the system since the stock system takes care of air itself. From what I've seen here, if it isn't maintenance, it's not keeping the reservoir full while the thermostat cycles a few times when first filling the system.
    (When cleaning or flushing, I always try to drain from the lowest point, which calls for a lot of catch pans instead.)
    Thanks Ron. Appreciate the insight here.

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