Deloreans are still like frying bacon w/o a shirt. No issue record is over.

[JIMJAM]

Thanks for the reply.... Most park their cars during the winter but here during the summer I drive it maybe 1-2x a week just to keep the car happy.

All I have done is peel of the pump rubber cover and look at the wiring. Looks very good. Not prepared to take it past that and get into the gas.
I might have done it wrong but I jumped the rpm relay/ign ON and check the +- terminals on the pump. I didn't get a reading.

[dn010]

The no power situation has happened to me once in the past and it was those lovely bulk connectors DMC used that corrode, it was located in the washer bottle box but you can retrieve it without pulling the box. Of course, verify you're testing it correctly first. Use a solid ground and then test the + post of the pump.

[JIMJAM]

Pulled all of the plugs passenger front engine bay, ran a round file gently in the o and spray out with elec cleaner. Same with the coil/ballast/connectors.....
I use bitsy's rpm relay but swapped it with a original and nothing...

[dn010]

I didn't mean bulkhead, I meant bulk as in the connector has like 20 pins and there are, if my memory is fine, two of them under the washer bottle box but again you can pull the wiring out without taking the box down. A lot of water likes to sit in that box if you don't have drain holes drilled or if the holes you did drill are filled with dirt.

[JIMJAM]

Car hasn't been wet in 10 years. Rain, washing or otherwise. Garage and fair weather car.
Took the washer bottle out long ago. That grounding area was taken apart yesterday, sanded contacts and cleaned. Super clean underbody and engine compartment.
That said.... I have hit bumps and things turn off. Hit another and things turn own. Hope thats the issue......

[Ron]

Tried calling you a few times months ago and also email. My phone has never worked well if at all getting to you up there. The emails... well not sure where they end up.

I am at the point where I simply cannot get under or lean over the car. My list was replacing the clutch master c and possible slave which I have. Some slight leakage at the pedal but the tank is contaminated with black fragments.

The car shutting off while idling surprised me. If it IS the fuel pump, I am game to install the DMC system but looks like they are been out of stock a long time. The starter stopping didn't surprise me as I had been around the car checking all connectors/grounds etc.

So the event was idling car just shut off. Starter fluid fires up. Checked all the usual suspects. Turned key and no starter.

Summer is when I drive it the least so its a good time to send it off or someone do it here. Good hearing from you.

Wires picture-BLK/ORANGE AND A SOLID BROWN unplugged
The right side has wired to it and the yellow jumper that runs across.

If anything at all electrical works (?) turn the key on and see if the AC blower works.
If it does, see if the AC blower motor breaker (the one on the Right in the pic) has four Brown wires going to it. If only three, note the loose Brown wire's terminal end is mangled/broke. Try touching it to the unused terminal on the Right breaker. (It feeds the blower and starter relay). Be careful! - Brown wires are hot at all times and some are unfused. If you don't hear the pump run (50/50 chance), have a helper turn the key to start.
If no luck, the loose Brown wire could be the feed for fuse #7 instead. (It's missing in your fuse block. It feeds the Lambda Relay & RPM Relay=>fuel pump.) You can check that by hooking a volt meter to Battery (-) and terminal 30 of the RPM relay (Red circle below). It should show ~12V (key on/off).

FP.jpg

P.S. I'll call you in the morning ;-)

[JIMJAM]

I have 2 appointments tomorrow and will be gone until the evening.
Thanks for the advice and I will stare at it later and try to track this down.

[DaraSue]

Obvious question is obvious, but you checked the battery cables for corrosion too, right? I had a nearly-out-of-the-blue total electrical failure a couple years ago (car was running normally and then nothing happened when I tried to start after a 5-minute stop at the bus station, only warning was that it had inexplicably died while idling for a smog check about an hour earlier) and the culprit was a corroded negative battery cable.

While that was going on I was able to get the car started with starter fluid and drive several miles but it died again when I exited the freeway 5 miles from my house.

[DMC-Ron]

Also obvious (and you may have already checked), is the inertia switch. Unless you have bypassed the fuel pump ground thru the switch, it can prevent the pump from running. Could it have gotten bumped?

Ron

[Ron]

Good ideas, especially if there are two separate issues!

Also, I seem to remember it is equipped with a battery cut-off that was prone to shaking loose.