Update
After a 3 hr chasing down wires and isolating power we got to the pump itself. From my extensive records it shows I replaced it 8 years ago and was one of John's later pumps. It has always had 2 wires pos/neg with eyelets which run to crimps and then on under the spare tire area. They have never been a issue and giving them a tug felt secure. Well when I put a specific lateral twist to one wire at the pump sprang to life. Release the pressure and pump dies.
I cut out the crimp and temp twisted the wires together and the car started first turn.
So now I am back to the 1/2 dozen things on my need to do list but she is running and as we know nothing is worse than a old car sitting.
So to add to my list of Delorean wisdom learned the hard way....
Clean your grounds. All 344 thousand, two hundred and seventy eight of them.
If it ain't broke don't mess with it.
Do things one at a time and check for changes before moving on.
And the latest addition. Get rid of CRIMPS as soon as you can.
I don't care how hard you crimp and have stories about how long yours has worked, you are one pothole away from trouble. At a minimum, twist wires, solder and put on twist on connector.
Be especially tidy and don't skimp on the ballast. Basically ANY wire that if the connection comes loose will cause the engine to stop needs to be well done. I recall a older issue where my car would not start and I threw money at it only to later see that the brown wire on the rpm relay had push out the back when I plugged it in after cleaning.
Now on to a master c replacement, fluid and brake bleed. I cannot do this on my own now.
A/C recharge and a issue I thought was due to the fuel pump wire. 1-2ND gear under heavy acceleration the car bucks. Not every time and I really have to bury the pedal.
Thanks to all who replied.