Ticking from front drivers wheel (i think)

[David T]

The pads are supposed to be loose or at least not tight so they can move just a little bit. Clean the calipers so they can move. Then get a 2" pad with #80 grit on it and using a drill go around the rotors and scuff them up to remove any glaze. That noise is called "threading" and it is like the pads are a phonograph needle riding on a record (the rotor) and they go up and down and when they go down they click. Anti-rattle springs also help. PJ Grady has the best anti-rattle spring kit but I think now all of the vendors offer a similar one.

[jimxms]

The pads are supposed to be loose or at least not tight so they can move just a little bit. Clean the calipers so they can move. Then get a 2" pad with #80 grit on it and using a drill go around the rotors and scuff them up to remove any glaze. That noise is called "threading" and it is like the pads are a phonograph needle riding on a record (the rotor) and they go up and down and when they go down they click. Anti-rattle springs also help. PJ Grady has the best anti-rattle spring kit but I think now all of the vendors offer a similar one.

This is on brand new pads and rotors with the DGo shim/spring kit

[David T]

It is still "Good Practice" to scuff up even a new rotor so the finish is non-directional and you are sure of having a fresh clean surface to bed the new pads into. You also shoot some Brake Cleaner on them to remove any oils from storage. Sometimes with new pads you have to file the edges so they fit into the calipers and can still have enough room to move. Only do that after cleaning the calipers and if the pads are still tight you take just enough off to allow movement. The original set-up only used anti-squeal shims, no springs. I am not familiar with DGo's spring kit so I can't say anything about it. It is possible the clicking is the bearing. You should hear that by just spinning the hub without the pads or wheel on it or maybe feel some play. Noises are "sneaky". You can swear it sounds like it is coming from the front but it is actually coming from the back. Maybe have someone run alongside and see if you can figure out which wheel is clicking.

[jimxms]

It is still "Good Practice" to scuff up even a new rotor so the finish is non-directional and you are sure of having a fresh clean surface to bed the new pads into. You also shoot some Brake Cleaner on them to remove any oils from storage. Sometimes with new pads you have to file the edges so they fit into the calipers and can still have enough room to move. Only do that after cleaning the calipers and if the pads are still tight you take just enough off to allow movement. The original set-up only used anti-squeal shims, no springs. I am not familiar with DGo's spring kit so I can't say anything about it. It is possible the clicking is the bearing. You should hear that by just spinning the hub without the pads or wheel on it or maybe feel some play. Noises are "sneaky". You can swear it sounds like it is coming from the front but it is actually coming from the back. Maybe have someone run alongside and see if you can figure out which wheel is clicking.

Yeah you’re right about noises being sneaky. I am thinking that it might possibly be from the rear now.

I initially ruled out the rear because when I pulled the handbrake the noise didn’t go away, but I totally forgot that the D has a separate set of callipers for the handbrake.

Are there any anti-rattle kits for the rear brakes? I just took the pads out and noticed that there isn’t any shims or springs like the front pads.

I’m also thinking my rear pistons might be sticking. The discs were really glazed and I had a hell of a lot of trouble retracting the pistons.

[TTait]

The rear can be a little easier to diagnose in that you can put the rear up on jack stands, with or without the wheels on, start the car and put it in gear and slowly run just the rear wheels to see if you can reproduce the noise in the driveway. If so you can get someone to do the "driving" for you while you examine what is going on.

Be safe. Chock the front wheels. Consider 4 jackstands on the rear alone, two on the jacking points on the body and two on the suspension, or working with a local shop that has a hydraulic lift.

[Helirich]

I'm in the process of installing vented discs up front. When I pulled the hubs, the wheel bearings all came apart. On closer inspection, I could see the bearings were discoloration from heat. The inner seals were shot and very little grease remained. There was some branelling to the bearing races. The weird thing is, right before I pulled the hub, I spun the disc with out the pads and it was nice and smooth. If you can't find anything else, might be worth looking into.