No power, won't rev under load. Low fuel pressure.

[Michael]

Those oe style pumps are ALL junk these days.

[David T]

If your eyes are burning and it is running very rich the plunger is stuck inside the mixture unit. The muffler also turns red.

[Helirich]

If your eyes are burning and it is running very rich the plunger is stuck inside the mixture unit. The muffler also turns red.

I agree with this, but I don't know why his control pressure is so low. If you must replace the CPR/WUR, they do sell rebuild kits on eBay. I did mine. I was not confident, but it works. There's no instructions and what printing there is, is German. But it's pretty straight forward replacing parts. There's also a video on Utube of a Porsche one.

[cdrusn]

FWIW when I was buying insurance damaged cars that had sat around for sometimes over a year or more in the hot sun, they would act like this because the gas had gone bad. Start ok, idle ok, but put a load on it like trying to accelarate and it would bog down. Take the gas cap off and give the tank a whiff to see if it might be bad or going bad.

[Helirich]

FWIW when I was buying insurance damaged cars that had sat around for sometimes over a year or more in the hot sun, they would act like this because the gas had gone bad. Start ok, idle ok, but put a load on it like trying to accelarate and it would bog down. Take the gas cap off and give the tank a whiff to see if it might be bad or going bad.

Yea, it couldn't hurt to drain the gas for your lawn mower. Fresh gas for the car.

[Roadster]

The gas isn't bad, only sat for about two months while waiting on parts.

I have sent the CPR/WUR out for a rebuild, as knowing this is good will eliminate a big unknown right now. I'll report back once it's rebuilt and installed.

[Roadster]

I got my CPR rebuilt and installed. This solved my apparent fuel starvation as the car will now rev under load. This exposed a new problem, where it is now extremely hard to start and does not seem to be running right, chugging a bit at low RPM and generally lacking power. It takes usually takes numerous tries to crank, walking away for about ten minutes, then coming back and it will fire.

I've been attempting to diagnose the fuel injections system as we want to know the fuel mixture is right. Using the guide on the CO mixture I've started with using a dwell meter on the frequency valve. I don't get a reading anywhere that I should, it sits at 84.5 with the meter set to four cycle, four cylinder as instructed. Jumping the RPM relay the frequency valve does buzz, but I get no normal reading. Pressing the full throttle switch does change the tone of the frequency valve but not the reading. I've even had others try to make sure I'm not missing something on the connection. Even with small copper wire around the ends between the pin and the probe I get nothing.

If I'm unable to get a reading with the dwell meter on the frequency valve, is there another component that logically I should check to restore this?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Reading 84 deg. says your lambda ECU is faulty. The most common problem is a missing ground going to the lambda ECU. Check that the two grounds running through the bulkhead connectors are attached to the engine block.

[David T]

Exactly where are you hooking up your dwell meter? You do not hook it up to the frequency valve. You hook to a wire in the diagnostic plug and ground. Messing with the mixture screw and reading dwell is the LAST thing you do. Before you can do that you must make sure the entire fuel and electrical systems are PROPERLY adjusted and working correctly. You CANNOT "adjust" your way out of this by twiddling the mixture screw. If the tamperproof plug is still in your mixture unit the mixture screw is probably very close to where it should be. ANY vacuum leak is going to make it impossible to correctly set your duty cycle (dwell). If the mixture screw is way off there is a procedure to get it close by seeing when the injectors start spraying. If the fuel plunger is stuck or is sticking you will never get it to run right.

[Roadster]

Understood, right now I'm not adjusting anything until I go through basic tests of the components that I can. I have the dwell meter hooked up to the two pin connecter on the passenger side of the engine bay. I was given some pretty clear instructions and am fairly certain I am checking correctly.

Given that I am unable to get a reading other than 84.5 on the dwell meter for the frequency valve connector but the valve does buzz along and change tone with the full throttle switch, is there a next logical step to check that would prevent me getting a normal reading? I'm having trouble understanding what component would prevent this if it appears to be operating.

Exactly where are you hooking up your dwell meter? You do not hook it up to the frequency valve. You hook to a wire in the diagnostic plug and ground. Messing with the mixture screw and reading dwell is the LAST thing you do. Before you can do that you must make sure the entire fuel and electrical systems are PROPERLY adjusted and working correctly. You CANNOT "adjust" your way out of this by twiddling the mixture screw. If the tamperproof plug is still in your mixture unit the mixture screw is probably very close to where it should be. ANY vacuum leak is going to make it impossible to correctly set your duty cycle (dwell). If the mixture screw is way off there is a procedure to get it close by seeing when the injectors start spraying. If the fuel plunger is stuck or is sticking you will never get it to run right.