Checking the sensors on the Y Pipe and Waterpump

[Azar]

And what about the Thermotime switch on the pump housing https://store.delorean.com/parts/eng...ater-pump.html number 24? It is showing 30Ohm at room temperature and at 90F

[Ron]

Hi Ron,
I tried and got different readings...
I don't have the vacuum so tried to blow through the center port. At room temeperature the air was coming out of upper port. I put it to the 120F water and it did not switch. Is it stuck in one position?

I'd say so, assuming you gave it ample time to warm up.

For the switch with a single male blade terminal (Lambda):
At room temperature it iwas open (about 18C here with the open window) - but still had 200kOhm at 120F, gradually increasing with temperature going down...

18 C is (too) close to the switching point. Maybe try again with ice water...
Increasing (or decreasing) readings don't make sense to me.
It should be closed, grounding the lambda terminal #7, when it is cold (12 C or less), where you should read zero resistance.
It should be open when it is warm (18 C or greater), where you should read infinite resistance.
[I fixed the typos etc.]

To be exact, at D:04:15 the manual says:
2. Thermal SwitchContact shall open at 15 ± 3°C (59°F)
Close at max. of 5°C below its opening temperature

======

(RE: The 2 prong)

again, different readings. at room temperature it was 10kOhm and at 120F it was 4kOhm graudally increasing as temp fall.
Perhaps all of them are faulty

It would be be very odd if they were.

I didn't have a way to check except at 100F and it was cheesy. (I just wanted to know if it varied and which way WRT temp.) Not to mention the one I have is an unproven pull-off from a core engine... I can see where yours would cool off and possibly match what I got at 100F....

I'd order the vacuum valve and ask the vendor about this... (I'd ask Mike at DMCMW.)

[Ron]

And what about the Thermotime switch on the pump housing https://store.delorean.com/parts/eng...ater-pump.html number 24? It is showing 30Ohm at room temperature and at 90F

It is more complicated to test... You'd have to test from prong to prong, from each of the two to the case, at different temps...and repeat some of that again after applying power to one prong (get it wrong and it's toast)....

I'd just wait and see if the cold start valve is operating correctly since it isn't buried.

[Azar]

I'd say so, assuming you gave it ample time to warm up.

18 C is (too) close to the switching point. Maybe try again with ice water...
Increasing (or decreasing) readings don't make sense to me.
It should be closed, grounding the lambda terminal #7, when it is cold (12 C or less), where you should read zero resistance.
It should be open when it is warm (18 C or greater), where you should read infinite resistance.
[I fixed the typos etc.]

To be exact, at D:04:15 the manual says:
2. Thermal SwitchContact shall open at 15 ± 3°C (59°F)
Close at max. of 5°C below its opening temperature

======

(RE: The 2 prong)
It would be be very odd if they were.

I didn't have a way to check except at 100F and it was cheesy. (I just wanted to know if it varied and which way WRT temp.) Not to mention the one I have is an unproven pull-off from a core engine... I can see where yours would cool off and possibly match what I got at 100F....

I'd order the vacuum valve and ask the vendor about this... (I'd ask Mike at DMCMW.)

Thanks Ron, so I have put lambda Switch to the fridge and it reads zero now. it looks like only the vacuum switch is not "switching".

[Azar]

I have heated up the vacuum switch higher than 120F and it switched! I have measured the temp as it cooled down and it switched back at around 119F (48°C).
Now back assembling the motor!

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[Azar]

It is more complicated to test... You'd have to test from prong to prong, from each of the two to the case, at different temps...and repeat some of that again after applying power to one prong (get it wrong and it's toast)....

I'd just wait and see if the cold start valve is operating correctly since it isn't buried.

Ron, I tried to test the Thermo-Time switch which suppose to open at 35C. I did not apply the current. At room temp (25C) the heating circuit is reading 30 Ohm. The other one (which sends current to the cold start valve) is closed. When I put it to 45C water the heating circuit reads 60 Ohm and the cold start valve circuit jumped to 120 Ohm after 2 minutes and stayed there. DMC says it should be infinite? https://support.delorean.com/kb/a60/...rt-issues.aspx
I hope it is enough not to operate the cold start valve? Once we start the car after assembly, How can i be sure that the cold start valve is not spraying open all the time? This was one of the concerns before we disassembled the engine - it was running very rich.

The other mistery is the Idle Speed Reg Sw, which as per DMC workshop manual has to switch at 15C but in fact - yours is reading 1,3kOhm at 100F and increasing, mine is reading about 4 times higher resistance at the same temp and increasing...

[Ron]

Ron, I tried to test the Thermo-Time switch which suppose to open at 35C. I did not apply the current. At room temp (25C) the heating circuit is reading 30 Ohm. The other one (which sends current to the cold start valve) is closed. When I put it to 45C water the heating circuit reads 60 Ohm and the cold start valve circuit jumped to 120 Ohm after 2 minutes and stayed there. DMC says it should be infinite? https://support.delorean.com/kb/a60/...rt-issues.aspx
I hope it is enough not to operate the cold start valve? Once we start the car after assembly, How can i be sure that the cold start valve is not spraying open all the time? This was one of the concerns before we disassembled the engine - it was running very rich.

The other mistery is the Idle Speed Reg Sw, which as per DMC workshop manual has to switch at 15C but in fact - yours is reading 1,3kOhm at 100F and increasing, mine is reading about 4 times higher resistance at the same temp and increasing...

Actually, "the other one" doesn't send power to the the cold start valve (CSV). It grounds power from the CSV, when it is below 35C.
Also, if you have your meter set to (Rx1) as in the article, 120 ohms would read as infinite (out of range...depending on the meter). According to the drawing in the WSM at D:01:01, it should never be infinite because one of the two heating elements always connects it to ground....

I would find a suitable container to catch fuel in, remove the CSV, and see that while cranking, it sprays when the unit is below ~35C and does not spray when above ~35C (or after ~30 seconds of total cranking time). You can disconnect the White with Yellow stripe wire at the ignition resistors to keep the engine from starting during the tests.

[Azar]

Actually, "the other one" doesn't send power to the the cold start valve (CSV). It grounds power from the CSV, when it is below 35C.
Also, if you have your meter set to (Rx1) as in the article, 120 ohms would read as infinite (out of range...depending on the meter). According to the drawing in the WSM at D:01:01, it should never be infinite because one of the two heating elements always connects it to ground....

I would find a suitable container to catch fuel in, remove the CSV, and see that while cranking, it sprays when the unit is below ~35C and does not spray when above ~35C (or after ~30 seconds of total cranking time). You can disconnect the White with Yellow stripe wire at the ignition resistors to keep the engine from starting during the tests.

Thanks Ron, sure, it provides the ground to the CSV.
My multimeter doesn't have RX1 or such.
Just realised that the whole circuit only active while cranking. So no way to have the CSV spraying after engine running. I am happy with my TTS. Thanks again for your help!

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[Ron]