Now that you have proven the ECU, you should check the continuity of the wires going to the frequency valve. From the sound of it you aren't grounding the circuit.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Now that you have proven the ECU, you should check the continuity of the wires going to the frequency valve. From the sound of it you aren't grounding the circuit.
David Teitelbaum
I’ve got buzzing! I took the ECU connector apart so I could backprobe the wires. Pin 5 has continuity to ground, but pin 16 does not. I jumpered the two and now I’m getting a nice loud FV buzz when the RPM relay is also jumpered.
So, I can fix this in a few different ways, but does anyone know offhand where the other end of that pin 16 ground wire terminates?
(Thin blue wire is the temporary patch)
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Christian Williams, Bay Area
#3452 from 2000-2005
#10644 since 2015
They go through the bulkhead and get joined to a terminal that bolts to your engine block.
B 19 X
L 20 R To diagnostic plug – read dwell here
U 21 X
E 22 B Engine block, from Lambda ECU pin 5
23 B Engine block, from Lambda ECU pin 16
24 X
25 WO Oil Pressure Switch
26 Y To WUR left pin
27 X
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Ah thanks, this was super helpful. Dave pasted the above from: https://www.dmc12.info/DeLorean%20Bu...Connectors.pdf I took a look at the blue plug and found that the number 23 pin receptacle had broken and the wire was probably making intermittent contact. I cut up an aluminum can and fashioned a sleeve to press the tabs so I could slide it out. I soldered it back together and my frequency valve is back in business!
Thank you for your time and expertise, Dave!
4EDD5F01-64E8-43C5-9BA2-726504CB80BE.jpg
Christian Williams, Bay Area
#3452 from 2000-2005
#10644 since 2015