Troubleshooting Hazard switch

[JavaRacer]

That's not like the schematic you posted or anything I have seen. In any case, purple to black is a dead short.

Note there are green and light green wires...

(still looking...)

I’m probably misunderstanding the schematic. Maybe the schematic is the back side of the socket? I was looking at it and describing as if looking into the female end of the socket. Here are pictures of what I’ve got...






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[WHO1DMC]

I did replace the bulb with an LED. But swapped in an orginal incandescent to see what would happen. Still blew the fuse. I'll give it a shot with no bulb and see what happens, although I would think that would more likely affect Fuse 8, rather than 6, no?

All depends if the wires went into the switch and what they are touching. It's just a thought because it happened to my headlight switch when I replaced the bulb. It did take me a little bit to figure out though. I just started working backwards from what I was working on.


Dave B.

[Ron]

I’m probably misunderstanding the schematic. Maybe the schematic is the back side of the socket? I was looking at it and describing as if looking into the female end of the socket. Here are pictures of what I’ve got...k

No, you are calling them out right, except pins #7 and #10 have light green with stripes (and the red should have an orange stripe). BUT, that doesn't match you schematic...

Here's a schematic with stock wiring, showing the inside of the hazard switch (in both modes).

HAZARD-TURN.jpg
And again, you can't have stock wiring when the purple is with the black. The only time you will see something like that is when a noise capacitor happens to have a black lead.

[JavaRacer]

That's not like the schematic you posted or anything I have seen. In any case, purple to black is a dead short.

Note there are green and light green wires...

(still looking...)

I DID have it wrong!! Sorry for that confusion! I was backwards AND upside down!! Okay, so here I have pics correctly oriented to the schematic, this time looking at the BACK of the socket! There are even little numbers conveniently stamped into the socket itself!! So, here's my corrected information!!!
I have power at 4 with the key off. I have power at 5 and 4 with the key in the run position.
Inkedsocket 3_LI.jpg
Inkedsocket 2_LI.jpg

[Ron]

I DID have it wrong!! Sorry for that confusion! I was backwards AND upside down!! Okay, so here I have pics correctly oriented to the schematic, this time looking at the BACK of the socket! There are even little numbers conveniently stamped into the socket itself!! So, here's my corrected information!!!
I have power at 4 with the key off. I have power at 5 and 4 with the key in the run position.

lol...I should of caught that when you had green with red in the corner instead of green with white..they are actually backwards from the schematics, but it doesn't mater.
Anyway, that leaves the black with purple and the 'extra' yellow. On the full schematic you can see that they are from a noise capacitor.
Power always being on pin #4, and on pin #5 with the key on is normal.

So, we're back to:

...pin #4 is being shorted to ground blowing fuse #6. Pin #6's connection between Pins #4/#5 is swapped when the switch is cycled. When the hazard switch is off, pin #4 is not connected to anything, so suspect a short internal to the hazard switch. Confirm by checking continuity between pins #4 and #7.

[JavaRacer]

lol...I should of caught that when you had green with red in the corner instead of green with white..they are actually backwards from the schematics, but it doesn't mater.
Anyway, that leaves the black with purple and the 'extra' yellow. On the full schematic you can see that they are from a noise capacitor.
Power always being on pin #4, and on pin #5 with the key on is normal.

So, we're back to: ...pin #4 is being shorted to ground blowing fuse #6. Pin #6's connection between Pins #4/#5 is swapped when the switch is cycled. When the hazard switch is off, pin #4 is not connected to anything, so suspect a short internal to the hazard switch. Confirm by checking continuity between pins #4 and #7.

Okay! Sorry, I had to quickly learn how to use a multimeter. So, I checked the switch and there is no continuity between #4 and #7, however I do get continuity when I turn the switch ON, between #7 and #4, as well as #7 and #5.
I also checked the socket, which gave me .14 between #7 and #4.

Sooo, is my issue in the switch? I'm hoping so, because I feel like there's been a lot of learning these past couple of weeks and I don't know if I have much room left for any more! LOL!

[Ron]

Okay! Sorry, I had to quickly learn how to use a multimeter. So, I checked the switch and there is no continuity between #4 and #7, however I do get continuity when I turn the switch ON, between #7 and #4, as well as #7 and #5.
I also checked the socket, which gave me .14 between #7 and #4.

Sooo, is my issue in the switch? I'm hoping so, because I feel like there's been a lot of learning these past couple of weeks and I don't know if I have much room left for any more! LOL!

Are you saying, with the hazard switch unplugged, when you checked there was no continuity between #7 and #4 with the hazard switch off, but there was with the hazard switch on?

And, if I'm following you, you shouldn't put your meter on #7 and #4, when set to continuity (ohms)...that can blow your multimeter (if it doesn't have a protection circuit, which many do not).

[JavaRacer]

Are you saying, with the hazard switch unplugged, when you checked there was no continuity between #7 and #4 with the hazard switch off, but there was with the hazard switch on?

And, if I'm following you, you shouldn't put your meter on #7 and #4, when set to continuity (ohms)...that can blow your multimeter (if it doesn't have a protection circuit, which many do not).

Yes, that’s correct... with the switch unplugged, on my bench; continuity between 7 and anything with the switch in the off position, continuity between 7-4 and 7-5 with the switch in the on position.
And I switched my meter over to Volts before putting it on the socket, thanks to Hagerty's nice little beginner’s Multi-meter crash course on their YouTube channel.

[Ron]

Yes, that’s correct... with the switch unplugged, on my bench; continuity between 7 and anything with the switch in the off position, continuity between 7-4 and 7-5 with the switch in the on position.And I switched my meter over to Volts before putting it on the socket, thanks to Hagerty's nice little beginner’s Multi-meter crash course on their YouTube channel.

OK, confirm your wires are as below. Don't worry about the wires for pins 9 and 10 being swapped. (Note I added some missing parts...)

Note that if you follow power from fuse 6, it goes to pin 4. And if the hazard switch connects pin 4 to pin 7 at any time, the black wire will short it to ground (and blow the fuse).

My only concern here is, if the key is on, fuse 4 will send power to pin 5. And if the hazard switch connects pin 4 to pin 5 at that time, fuse 4 should blow, which you are not saying. We need to know why....


Click to enlarge:
HAZARD-TURN2.jpg

P.S. I don't know who to credit for the earlier schematic, but it looks like it is an updated version of Sean's work.

[Ron]

Just reread everything...

Yes, that’s correct... with the switch unplugged, on my bench; continuity between 7 and anything with the switch in the off position, continuity between 7-4 and 7-5 with the switch in the on position.
And I switched my meter over to Volts before putting it on the socket, thanks to Hagerty's nice little beginner’s Multi-meter crash course on their YouTube channel.

I sure hope you meant, "..., no continuity between 7 and anything with the switch in the off position,.."
In which case, the bulb is not connecting pins 7 and 3, as it should be with the hazard switch on or off. It could be blown or not installed correctly, as Dave mentioned....you didn't report back to him on how it went with the bulb removed.