An odd slipping phenomenon of the automatic transmission

[Michael]

DPI's silicone gasket is designed to be reusable. I think it's quite a bit thicker than the cork gaskets which may allow for a seal between uneven surfaces. Also you may have to tap the pan holes down with a rubber or plastic mallot before reinstalling. I can't remember the torque specs for the filter and pan but it's not hard to find.

[dmcnc]

^ditto
I recommend you remove the pan and gasket. Remove any sealant you may have used until you're down to just metal/aluminum. After your dripping stops, hit that spot between the valve body and the case edge facing the rear of the car with brake cleaner, wipe, brake cleaner, wipe. Once you're sure that no further fluid will drip down, clean both surfaces with brake cleaner, then follow up with paint thinner. Clean the DPI gasket with IP alcohol followed by thinner. Carefully reinstall making sure no fluid has dropped down to the mating area. Carefully and evenly tighten down the bolts. Use a needle torque wrench if you have one, but just make sure you don't over distort the gasket.

[SBL]

The DPI gasket was suck to the metal and had to be scraped off. Could not be reused.

I see no support for the cork gasket of cork gasket plus sealant (with I did not use, as stated). I guess y'all are saying that a drip of this nature implies the need for a thicker gasket. Funny that it is only is one place, with no visible sign of deformity. I guess that I could have ripped the gasket at that point near the corner of the front passenger side, but did not realize it.

[dmcnc]

The original cork gasket had washers to prevent installers from shattering the gasket. Whatever you do, don't just use "right stuff" sealant by itself. It may stop leaks, but will make it almost impossible to remove without distorting the pan in the future.

[Ron]

The DPI gasket was suck to the metal and had to be scraped off. Could not be reused.

I see no support for the cork gasket of cork gasket plus sealant (with I did not use, as stated). I guess y'all are saying that a drip of this nature implies the need for a thicker gasket. Funny that it is only is one place, with no visible sign of deformity. I guess that I could have ripped the gasket at that point near the corner of the front passenger side, but did not realize it.

May not be the problem, but usually when a sheet metal pan leaks at one corner it is because it was stuck and someone pried it off there...
You might try laying the pan upside down on a hard, flat, smooth surface and see if a folded dollar will drag all around the edges. While in this position, you can take a deep well socket (or similar) and a hammer to flatten out distortions at the bolt holes. But usually the distortion is in the other direction (from over tightening). If so, you can put a deep well in a vice, set the hole over it and tap it back flat with the hammer while keeping the pan level.
Rubber-cork combo gaskets are the best, imho. Take all of the slack out of the bolts, bumping the bottom of the pan when it gets close. Then torque the pan down in even steps. Work from side to side, middle of the straight runs toward the corners, I.E., corners last.

I agree on the Great Stuff being a PITA, but it will work if all else fails.

[DrWin]

IMO the filter is a lousy design. The OE mesh is too restrictive and the feed/rest cavity is too shallow. It doesn't take much material at all to plug up a OE filter.

The filters I made a few years ago have a filtration element that is not as dense as the OE mesh was. I think this improved the throttle response as the clutches were (again IMO) somewhat starved at idle while in gear.

Is this something you're selling and/or willing the share how you did?

[Michael]

Is this something you're selling and/or willing the share how you did?

I no longer do those filters as it was a one time deal but DeLoreango has a supply of them in stock(no idea how many they have left).

[SBL]

I did not see much in the way of distortion with the holes, but maybe a little so I straightened them up.

Whoever put the pan on before me apparently used a clear "make a gasket" approach, perhaps with hardware-store clear silicone compound.

One hole is stripped, and I have just a slight 1/2 turn grip, even with a slightly longer bolt. I will leave it be.

I used the DPI gasket. It is pliable, strong, and thick. I like this gasket. Josh recommended that a thin coat of Hylomar M be placed on both sides of the gasket. Easy install, torqued to 2-3ft lbs.

For the first time in its life, I bet, there is not a single drip or drop from the transmission of this car.

Shifting now without any slipping whatsoever. I need to work on the kickdown system, as I do not get the downshift. I will start another thread if I can't get that straightened out.

Thanks all.