Changing the transmission fluid (once more)

[DrWin]

Stop when it shows 1> quart lower than totally FULL.

Thanks! Please elaborate. 1 quart lower than totally FULL. Do you consider "FULL" to be above the text WARM on the dipstick? Or where is that?

Check the fluid and add to full mark w/o going over. (You can guess fairly well because the distance between the 2 main marks on most represent 1 quart.)

Again please elaborate for the slow learner: What are the two main marks?

[Ron]

Thanks! Please elaborate. 1 quart lower than totally FULL. Do you consider "FULL" to be above the text WARM on the dipstick? Or where is that?


Again please elaborate for the slow learner: What are the two main marks?

I think I see the problem now...You don't have a dipstick with a "L" and a "F" as in the owner's manual.
I assume your's is like the one I've seen from DMCH. (Has, "COLD WARM HOT" and mystery lines on the other side ;-)
I would say that FULL would be just above "WARM".
The two marks would surround "WARM", I.E., COLD | WARM | HOT
Next time you change the fluid you will be able to tell exactly where it is.

[David T]

The power flush actually does work but you are right, on a really bad transmission it can dislodge enough dirt to really mess things up. As with any procedure, whoever is making the decision should be guided by experience, not profit motive. All too often an overzealous shop will recommend unnecessary work. On most newer cars the manufacturer doesn't recommend taking the pan down and changing the filter, they say to do a power flush. On some cars it is a very difficult and time consuming job to even drop the pan. Once a shop buys the equipment they want to try to use it on as many cars as they can so they get the machine to pay itself back quickly. You see the same thing happen when a shop buys an alignment rack. They start recommending it to every job as they go through the shop. As far as a Delorean is concerned, it is the easiest way to do a fluid change. Even doing what Michael suggested, changing the fluid several times in a short period, doesn't get all of the old fluid and dirt out but it is better than nothing. The best way to know what to do is to put some of the fluid on your fingers after checking the level. If it is dark, smells burnt, or feels gritty, it should be changed.

[DrWin]

I think I see the problem now...You don't have a dipstick with a "L" and a "F" as in the owner's manual.
I assume your's is like the one I've seen from DMCH. (Has, "COLD WARM HOT" and mystery lines on the other side ;-)
I would say that FULL would be just above "WARM".
The two marks would surround "WARM", I.E., COLD | WARM | HOT
Next time you change the fluid you will be able to tell exactly where it is.

Damn... I thought about this yesterday. B/c the dipstick I have, have no FULL marking and looks NOTHING like the one in the Renault manuals. I got to thinking wether the dipstick was original or not. Or wether it was possible to replace it with something that was easier to read.

You are absolutely right. I have COLD WARM HOT and mystery lines on the reverse. So I just fill it up until it hits between WARM and HOT with the engine idling?
After letting the oil settle down for a minute or two? This is REALLY helpfull, thanks!
(Also - where do I get the right dipstick?)

[DrWin]

The power flush actually does work but you are right, on a really bad transmission it can dislodge enough dirt to really mess things up. As with any procedure, whoever is making the decision should be guided by experience, not profit motive. All too often an overzealous shop will recommend unnecessary work. On most newer cars the manufacturer doesn't recommend taking the pan down and changing the filter, they say to do a power flush. On some cars it is a very difficult and time consuming job to even drop the pan. Once a shop buys the equipment they want to try to use it on as many cars as they can so they get the machine to pay itself back quickly. You see the same thing happen when a shop buys an alignment rack. They start recommending it to every job as they go through the shop. As far as a Delorean is concerned, it is the easiest way to do a fluid change. Even doing what Michael suggested, changing the fluid several times in a short period, doesn't get all of the old fluid and dirt out but it is better than nothing. The best way to know what to do is to put some of the fluid on your fingers after checking the level. If it is dark, smells burnt, or feels gritty, it should be changed.

That sounds like something to look out for. It's the old problem with everything looking like a nail to the guy with the new hammer. I actually met a (very drunk) classic car mechanic who wandered in to my garage while i was working on the car. He was very fast to recommend the powerflush service his employer does as a remedy for odd shifting. I happened to read the other day that late 1->2 when cold and shifting in and out of gears on low throttle was indicative of a shot governor. Link I think i'd rather send DMCH my governor computer than go get flushed. I don't suspect that powerflushing the gearbox would help the electronics out.

[Jonathan]

Ok, so I've had my car for 14 years and still don't feel great about taking a good ATF level reading. For the same things you've mentioned. It's just harder than it seems it should be to see what the level is. Add to that how vague the answer is to how much fluid is needed after it's drained and it's no wonder people are concerned.

"If the level is low it slips, if it's overfilled it leaks." Yea, I wanted more specifics than that too.

I have that same COLD WARM HOT dipstick that you do. It came with my car so I don't know the history of which car got what design or had which markings originally. I replaced the dipstick tube not long ago and wanted to share some pictures. Since I didn't get a good answer to how much fluid to add when refilling, I wanted to see where the end of that dipstick goes into the pan.

IMG_3498.jpgIMG_3499.jpgIMG_3500.jpgIMG_1164.jpgIMG_1169.jpgIMG_1171.jpg

[Ron]

Damn... I thought about this yesterday. B/c the dipstick I have, have no FULL marking and looks NOTHING like the one in the Renault manuals. I got to thinking wether the dipstick was original or not. Or wether it was possible to replace it with something that was easier to read.

You are absolutely right. I have COLD WARM HOT and mystery lines on the reverse. So I just fill it up until it hits between WARM and HOT with the engine idling?

If you have driven it a bit after the engine is warm, yes.

After letting the oil settle down for a minute or two?

The time depends on how cold the engine/trans/fluid is. It may take a minute for it to drain down the fill tube when the trans/fluid is cold, but much shorter when warm.

If you have drained it and everything is cold, start the engine, add 3 quarts, wait a minute and check. It should be reach the cold-warm area. If not add ~1/2 quart. Once the engine is up to temp, double check and drive it around a bit (to heat up the trans/fluid). Finally bring it between warm and hot. Expect ~4 quarts total, plus any you may have drained out of the lines, converter, etc.
It's not all that critical -- Just don't drive it if it's not showing on the stick and don't top it off when the trans is cold.

(Also - where do I get the right dipstick?)

The dipstick you have is right.

[DrWin]

Ok, so I've had my car for 14 years and still don't feel great about taking a good ATF level reading. For the same things you've mentioned. It's just harder than it seems it should be to see what the level is. Add to that how vague the answer is to how much fluid is needed after it's drained and it's no wonder people are concerned.

"If the level is low it slips, if it's overfilled it leaks." Yea, I wanted more specifics than that too.

I have that same COLD WARM HOT dipstick that you do. It came with my car so I don't know the history of which car got what design or had which markings originally. I replaced the dipstick tube not long ago and wanted to share some pictures. Since I didn't get a good answer to how much fluid to add when refilling, I wanted to see where the end of that dipstick goes into the pan.

Excactly my problem. I'd like to know what is going on, and when I can rest assured that I did it right.
Actually I wouldn't mind if it would leak - If it just blows off excess ATF I'd always go for overfull, since my understanding is that underfull will damage the transmission. I somehow got the impression that overfilling the transmission would also potentially damage something. (?)
Thanks for the pictures - care to share why you replaced the dipstick tube? Was it damaged?

[DrWin]

If you have driven it a bit after the engine is warm, yes.


The time depends on how cold the engine/trans/fluid is. It may take a minute for it to drain down the fill tube when the trans/fluid is cold, but much shorter when warm.

If you have drained it and everything is cold, start the engine, add 3 quarts, wait a minute and check. It should be reach the cold-warm area. If not add ~1/2 quart. Once the engine is up to temp, double check and drive it around a bit (to heat up the trans/fluid). Finally bring it between warm and hot. Expect ~4 quarts total, plus any you may have drained out of the lines, converter, etc.
It's not all that critical -- Just don't drive it if it's not showing on the stick and don't top it off when the trans is cold.


The dipstick you have is right.

Thanks again, I feel much less uninformed now. Now I just have to sit tight and wait for my replacement dipstick.

[dmcnc]

Excactly my problem. I'd like to know what is going on, and when I can rest assured that I did it right.
Actually I wouldn't mind if it would leak - If it just blows off excess ATF I'd always go for overfull, since my understanding is that underfull will damage the transmission. I somehow got the impression that overfilling the transmission would also potentially damage something. (?)
Thanks for the pictures - care to share why you replaced the dipstick tube? Was it damaged?

The transmission will overheat if overfilled. That will damage the unit.