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Thread: 1005 Restoration

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    1005 Restoration

    1005 arrived yesterday from Hawaii. It runs and drives (the 3 miles from the pickup anyway), but has numerous issues. Fortunately, the PO did the big spend on failure items, so what remains is hopefully mostly cosmetic and a great deal of tidying up rather than big ticket items.

    Anyway, I'll let the pictures do the talking.

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  2. #2
    Senior Member Ras12's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2012

    Location:  New England

    Posts:    329

    My VIN:    10350 & 2083 SEARCHING FOR VIN#16664

    Club(s):   (DMCNE)

    Congrats! Don’t forget to post your restoration process.
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    SEARCHING FOR VIN #16664
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  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2021

    Location:  DMV

    Posts:    79

    My VIN:    Coming, hopefully!

    Congrats, Mr.C!! Any body damage? How long was it in hawaii?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

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    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by 84Impulse View Post
    Congrats, Mr.C!! Any body damage? How long was it in hawaii?
    There's some dents in the hood, and I think some of the panels actually have some rust. The fit of the passenger door is very poor. The car was in Hawaii since original sale, so just on 40 years, including 10 sitting in a container.

  5. #5
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    321

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Being on the island surrounded by salt water, how is the frame?
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

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    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by JBaker4981 View Post
    Being on the island surrounded by salt water, how is the frame?
    I'm not at my computer, so I'll post pictures this weekend. The PO was originally from Ohio. He said there (and certainly in PA where I live) cars rust from the bottom up. In Hawaii, from the top down.

    The frame is great. Not quite as nice as my first car, just the usual rust spots up front. For both cars this winter I'll remove as much as I can from underneath and paint by hand. I expect that to be a week long process.

    The car is really dirty though. Did a first wash but it'll need much more.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Here are some frame pictures the PO took.

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  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    I've now spent some quality time with the car, and can report more fully on its condition.

    To start with, here's an incomplete list things the PO did replace:

    * Combined fuel pump/sender
    * Seat rails
    * Carpet (it appears I have new, unused spare pieces)
    * Windscreen
    * Radiator
    * Engine mounts
    * Y Pipe and other valley components
    * Spark plugs, wires, rotor, etc
    * Brake master cylinder
    * Alternator
    * Brake pistons
    * New style engine bay harness

    This comes to about $8500 in parts, so much of the big spend I'm home has been done.

    None of the fluids have been changed in 2 years. The oil pan does appear to be leaking (and the gasket has been replaced), but I know
    from previous discussions on this topic, it could easily be elsewhere. In any case, I won't be worrying too much about the engine right now,
    apart from doing an oil change, as long as the car can continue to move under its own power.

    The car was previously taken apart and reassembled; unfortunately in a somewhat haphazard manner by the PO - missing or mismatched bolts
    and washers, poorly aligned panels. Although much of the hardware has been replaced, there's still numerous rusty bolts to remove.

    I have the fascias off, for repainting soon. For the front spoiler, I reused studs I had from the trailing arm shields on other car (replaced with the
    all-in-one strips), to replace some of the studs. On the rear fascia, all the holes for the lights/license plate are blown out, so will need to be
    repaired. The front fascia is in pretty good shape, apart from the paint, and holes for a previous front license plate (not needed here in PA).

    Presently trying to remove the rusted up studs for the trailing arm bolt shields - I'll be putting in the all-in-one strips there too. The shields need
    cleaning and painting, and it's very likely the TABs are original, or at least, very old (already have a set).

    Tires replaced 2 years ago, but no alignment done. They are mismatched, and there's a very slow leak on the rears, perhaps due to a
    problem with the rims.

    There's a patina of red dust/clay on everything, plus the usual layer of grime, creatures, etc, which is all proving quite difficult to remove.

    Driver side mirror needs replacement (I have a spare), and I need to reassemble the mirror switch (I was sent some ball bearings). I've yet
    to venture into the doors.

    The engine bay fuel lines are updated, however the lines from the pump and accumulator appear to be original, so those will need to be
    replaced ASAP.

    There's much, much more, but this is off the top of my head.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,234

    Quite a project. It's nice that it runs because you don't need to be worried about spending money. With the prices going up you should do fine. You have a giant benifit in that you owned one before.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh, PA

    Posts:    503

    My VIN:    Yes.

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)

    Still largely at the "taking things apart" stage, rather than putting things back in. I have used many buckets of water on the car to try and get it clean (or at least, cleaner), especially inside, where I'll be refitting the handbrake shortly.

    I still have to remove all the rusted studs holding the trailing arm shields, and there's some tub damage around some of the spots. *Everything* in the car needs a clean, but I've now repaired the knee bolster studs, and
    will need to repair the console and shifter assembly. The driver mirror (replaced the glass) is almost done - just short some screws for the motor.

    I pulled the steering wheel column - I had been concerned about its shape, but it's all surface rust, so I'll clean that up. The wobbliness was due to the loose (and fragile) internal bushing - I have another I'll use.

    In the engine bay, I've replaced a bunch of hardware and painted some of the brackets, so that makes a big difference in appearance. I removed the bolted in only compressor, since that's stupidly dirty, and A/C
    isn't presently connected anyway.

    Next big jobs are to finish repair of fascias and repaint. Hopefully can be back on the road in a few weeks as a rolling restoration.

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