Things to do inside the doors

[Helirich]

I have plans to open up the door panels for one job and I figure I will do multiple jobs while I'm in there. Here is my list.

1. Change the door lock tumblers so my ignition key opens the doors. (I got a kit from DMC.)
2. Replace the pax side window felt. (It's torn up and smears glue on the window)
3. Install door pull straps. (Mine has the straps on the handles)
4. Find/fix any rattles in the doors. (I found a thread on this subject)

In addition to these items, I need to look into the operation of the locks. I'm not interested in making the locks work electricaly. I have zero problem opening them from a key or the button. The only issue I have currently is the driver's button is so hard to move, it can't be opened (or locked) from a key. It would rather twist the key off. In order to lock the car, I have to close the door and reach in from the pax side to lock. Then I lock the pax door with a key. This process must be reversed when I come back. So I intend to loosen it up somehow. Maybe remove the selinoid completely.

In any case, is there any other jobs I should be planning for? I'm going to be ordering some parts. (Trim for straps, window felt) Is there something else I should be ordering now?

Any help/ideas appreciated.

[Jonathan]

First thing you do is tape the edges of the stainless once you get the panels off. This will save you from going to the ER to have them sew your finger back on.

I suspect it will be obvious what is causing the grief with your driver's side door lock once you get a look in there. It's all pretty straightforward as to how it is supposed to work. So consequentially, it's also pretty straightforward to see why something isn't working as intended.

I would plan to do some cleaning at the bottom. Taking out little bits of things, nuts, bolts, broken glass, bugs, mice leftovers, whatever. Now would be the time to look at the wiring end of your door light sockets to see if they are in good condition (and not chewed).

Many people elect to replace the rubber seal along the bottom edge of the door. You don't need to be inside the door to do this, but you might as well do it now if it's needed.

See if your doors have the plastic sheets (moisture barriers/membranes). Many won't have them if someone's been in there before and pulled them away/out to get to work. They fit weird in my opinion so up to you if you feel like going through the trouble of putting new ones in.

You can also inspect the door plenum and vent assembly. There would have been a foam filler in those to seal up around the plastic edge of the vent grills piece and the larger opening it fits through. Most of that foam is long gone after 40 years. Simple to replace once out of the door.

I know you said you aren't planning on making the door locks power, but consider the big metal solenoids that are in there right now and the weight reduction if you were to go to the light weight plastic actuators.

That's all I can think of at the moment...

[David T]

Other things you *could* do while inside;
Remove, clean, lubricate and reinstall the door locks
Go over all of the door adjustments as per the Service Bulletin
Make sure the actuators work properly or rebuild them or replace them
Lubricate the window tracks and adjust if necessary
Check all of the wiring to make sure it is not damaged and is secured
Replace any missing hardware, screws, etc.
I second covering the sharp edges, they are VERY sharp!
You will be surprised what junk you can find in the bottom of a door. Make sure the drain holes are all nice and clean.
As for the plastic sheeting, no need to order it, any heavy plastic will do as long as it is big enough. In a pinch you could use a large garbage bag like a contractor bag.
While working inside the door you can make a short strap that hooks to the door to hold it closed while you sit on the door sill. Should be a picture of one somewhere. It is a steel cable about 12" long with a loop on one end and an "S" hook on the other.

[MrChocky]

Clean the connectors to the power mirrors. This was the cause of my inability to adjust in all the directions.

[Helirich]

Jonathan and David, excellent ideas. Thanks!

Clean the connectors to the power mirrors. This was the cause of my inability to adjust in all the directions.

My mirrors work now, but I bet if I didn't do this, they would have quit right after putting it back together. Lol. Thanks!

[Drive Stainless]

Wedgectomy (look it up).

Replace the foam in the upper door panels.

Replace lock solenoids with actuators.

Replace power window motors with the new units.

[David T]

Forgot to mention, make sure the A/C duct inside the door has not fallen apart. It creates a huge leak.

[Helirich]

Wedgectomy (look it up).

Replace the foam in the upper door panels.

Replace lock solenoids with actuators.

Replace power window motors with the new units.

Would anyone have a link to wedgectomy? I did a search and found many threads that refer to it, but nothing explaining it.

[Drive Stainless]

Would anyone have a link to wedgectomy? I did a search and found many threads that refer to it, but nothing explaining it.

https://support.delorean.com/kb/a101...ation-new.aspx


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[Helirich]

https://support.delorean.com/kb/a101...ation-new.aspx


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Thankyou!