Posts: 1,250
Longer life is the number one thing I hear on my 4x4 forums. They are also more efficient than brushed, so more power to weight or size or amps. The 4x4 guys all swear the Spal fans are the best in the world. (Brushed or brushless, they make both kinds)Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 1,168
My VIN: 10270
~7qt of 20/50, a barely functional PCV design, and a 1/4 mile coolant loop. You want to add heat or your oil will get shitty in a hurry from moisture and fuel dilution. You absolutely get worse mileage when cold unless your engine is totally out of tune. On rare occasions I can see the affect of a cold day on coolant temps which show evidence of Tstat acting somewhat as a temp regulator but its rare, rather cool air temps, and only when cruising at a reasonable speed. It's still more than a floor than a regulator as generally above 50-60F and below about 30-45MPH means the actual job of temp regulation falls to the fans. I can bore anyone to tears with supporting datalogs if you'd like to visualize the numbers for yourself.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,177
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
+1
Posts: 1,250
They are claiming 40,000 hour life. They also say they are much more tolerant of vibration and dust than a standard motor. They are quieter also, but I don't think you can hear a motor because of the fan. They have diy kits on this site.
https://wizardcooling.com/accessorie...-fan-packages/
Are our fans 10" or 12"?
I think I will be a ghiny pig on this. I'm probably going to order a new radiator from one of the venders and make my own shroud. Is there any consensus on the best radiator?
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
That graph on the 10" looks strange. From what I see one fan draws 20 to 33 amps.
Posts: 4,779
My VIN: Banged your VIN'S mom
Ron and Helirich in this thread.
20210722_194446.jpg
Posts: 1,250
That site is all over the place on amps/watts. Like it's not clear if the 15" fans ar 300w or 500w and some duel fan setups say per fan and others say total.
Of course the venders don't even say what the amps are on our fans. I'm to measure the amps on my D. I have a 12" or 13" Spal fan on my project truck and I know it draws 22 amps. It is not brushless. I would say it blows more than both of our fans. But it probably has a better fan design.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
I've measured some OEM DeLorean fans to draw 15 amps each. Most vendor fans run from 7 to 9 amps each. Looks like your going to need to run 8 AWG wire for your dual fan power.
Posts: 1,250
I see they talk about 1000-4000rpm. I guess you can set or vari it. I suppose that will effect the amp draw.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
It's not just the running (continuous) ampere draw, the start-up current is over 60 amps! It is such a load on the system, you can feel it in the accelerator pedal as you drive when both fans come on! Fanzilla was a BIG improvement, it staggered and soft-started the fans. The new Spall and Spall type fans are way more efficient and draw a LOT less current than the OE fans. Brushless is the way to go, they will run a lot longer before they wear out and a lot less noise on the electrical system and less radio interference. Not only do the Spalls use less current, they move MORE air. The way to go is to use a relay for each fan and stagger them so they don't start together (easy to do with solid state relays, you set one with a delay). The whole cooling fan circuit is so under-engineered, especially by today's standards. The other thing that might be an improvement would be to move the "O" switch to the radiator. I don't know why DMC thought it was a good idea to stick it in a pipe by the motor. On most cars the fan switch is in the radiator outlet tank so if the coolant needs to be cooled by the radiator, that is the place to know what the temperature of the coolant is, not the temp of the coolant coming out of the motor going to the radiator. So many things that could be done better as far as the cooling system and electrical system is concerned. As for the thermostat, it does actually modulate but if it is very hot or very cold it will be open or closed. The thermostat is what is supposed to maintain a stable temperature for the motor and make the motor warm up faster. The radiator is supposed to be designed to overcool the motor AND the automatic transmission and the fans also have to cool the A/C condenser. If the radiator didn't have surplus capacity the fans would never shut off and the motor would just get hotter and hotter. Exactly what happens if either or both fans don't work, the cooling fan circuit breaker pops and resets, or the radiator is clogged up on the air or water side or the radiator is full of air. Complex subject. Bottom line, the cooling and electrical systems could use a LOT of improvement.
David Teitelbaum
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