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Thread: OEM radiator?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Find a spec sheet showing less power for equal air flow and I will order one just to test it. You know I love to reduce current consumption and I have a hot wire anemometer.
    .
    I'm leaving for Delaware tomorrow. I'll be gone at least a week. If I order one and have it sent to you, you could do all the testing you want and send it on to me. Is that a fair deal?

  2. #12
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    I'm leaving for Delaware tomorrow. I'll be gone at least a week. If I order one and have it sent to you, you could do all the testing you want and send it on to me. Is that a fair deal?
    That would be great. By the way, I had a customer insist on keeping OEM fans which were drawing 15 amps each when he was at my house. But that would trigger my overheat warning on my fan fail. He finally swapped to a vendors lower power fans and said his engine temps still stay in the green. He lives in Florida now also. So I don't think you need higher volume flow fans for the DeLorean.
    Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 07-23-2021 at 06:25 PM.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    That would be great. By the way, I had a customer insist on keeping OEM fans which were drawing 15 amps each when he was at my house. But that would trigger my overheat warning on my fan fail. He finally swapped to a vendors lower power fans and said his engine temps still stay in the green. He lives in Florida now also. So I don't think you need higher volume flow fans for the DeLorean.
    I agree mine are working. I just drove today in very hot conditions and it stayed at the 160 line.

    I will send you a PM about the fan.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    That would be great. By the way, I had a customer insist on keeping OEM fans which were drawing 15 amps each when he was at my house. But that would trigger my overheat warning on my fan fail. He finally swapped to a vendors lower power fans and said his engine temps still stay in the green. He lives in Florida now also. So I don't think you need higher volume flow fans for the DeLorean.
    There are people who swear up and down that the OEM fans have better airflow. That seems dubious to me, but so be it.

  5. #15
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChocky View Post
    There are people who swear up and down that the OEM fans have better airflow. That seems dubious to me, but so be it.
    Direct comparisons seem to be confounded by a combo of "lack of original part numbers", reliance on manufacturers specs, and anecdote.

    For example: OEM -vs- Supplier1 -vs- Supplier2
    Rather than: OEM -vs- Spal 30100364 -vs- Derale 16920

    Then you add in owner's anecdotal tests w/out any standardization - OEM shroud / metal shroud / no shroud, aluminum or brass radiators, etc - and it's impossible to draw conclusions without a lot of anecdote.

    Dave did some great genuine research & measurements here:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?49...-Fan-Test-Data
    The data suggests OEM fans flow more but at quite a current cost
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  6. #16
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Direct comparisons seem to be confounded by a combo of "lack of original part numbers", reliance on manufacturers specs, and anecdote.

    For example: OEM -vs- Supplier1 -vs- Supplier2
    Rather than: OEM -vs- Spal 30100364 -vs- Derale 16920

    Then you add in owner's anecdotal tests w/out any standardization - OEM shroud / metal shroud / no shroud, aluminum or brass radiators, etc - and it's impossible to draw conclusions without a lot of anecdote.

    Dave did some great genuine research & measurements here:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?49...-Fan-Test-Data
    The data suggests OEM fans flow more but at quite a current cost
    I still have a set of OEM fans mounted on an OEM radiator and OEM fan shroud. I will use those to compare when I start testing that new brushless fan. I wish I had a junked AC condenser on my test set up.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Direct comparisons seem to be confounded by a combo of "lack of original part numbers", reliance on manufacturers specs, and anecdote.

    For example: OEM -vs- Supplier1 -vs- Supplier2
    Rather than: OEM -vs- Spal 30100364 -vs- Derale 16920

    Then you add in owner's anecdotal tests w/out any standardization - OEM shroud / metal shroud / no shroud, aluminum or brass radiators, etc - and it's impossible to draw conclusions without a lot of anecdote.

    Dave did some great genuine research & measurements here:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?49...-Fan-Test-Data
    The data suggests OEM fans flow more but at quite a current cost
    On a helicopter cooling fan my company was working on many years ago, it had a stainless fan that was just cut out with a waterjet and twisted blades. We hired a fan expert and he made two suggestions. The first was to add a curve to the lip of the shroud. That didn't seem to make much differnce and it wasn't worth the production costs. But he also recommended the fan blades be "cupped". That made a world of differnce. That was on a pusher configuration. He told us that a fan like ours is good for velocity, but no good for pressure. (We needed pressure) The cupped blades helped a lot, but were not ideal. Robinson helicopters use a squirrel cage fan which he said was much better for the application. (To hard to design into our aircraft)

    While our fan is not good for pressure, it should be fine in a puller configuration. The OEM fan shroud looks good to me. It would be nice if I could incorporate the brushless fan into it, but I doubt I can. I am pretty good with sheet metal, so I think I can come up with something.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Direct comparisons seem to be confounded by a combo of "lack of original part numbers", reliance on manufacturers specs, and anecdote.

    For example: OEM -vs- Supplier1 -vs- Supplier2
    Rather than: OEM -vs- Spal 30100364 -vs- Derale 16920

    Then you add in owner's anecdotal tests w/out any standardization - OEM shroud / metal shroud / no shroud, aluminum or brass radiators, etc - and it's impossible to draw conclusions without a lot of anecdote.

    Dave did some great genuine research & measurements here:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?49...-Fan-Test-Data
    The data suggests OEM fans flow more but at quite a current cost
    Well, yes, Exactly. For now, both my cars have original (or apparently so) fans, and until there's a compelling reason otherwise, or I somehow run out of
    other things to fix, they'll stay like that. Certainly the cooling in my driver seems to work extremely well; only twice has the needle threatened the first
    mark on the gauge. I'm less convinced that things are OK in the project, but won't know for a while.

  9. #19
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    That would be great. By the way, I had a customer insist on keeping OEM fans which were drawing 15 amps each when he was at my house. But that would trigger my overheat warning on my fan fail. He finally swapped to a vendors lower power fans and said his engine temps still stay in the green. He lives in Florida now also. So I don't think you need higher volume flow fans for the DeLorean.
    I'm in South Florida and recently installed a new DMCH radiator and DPI fans. Engine temps stay cool so far and I'm sure it will do well even during our hot/humid summers.
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  10. #20
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    If you are moving over around 30 MPH you don't even need the fans to provide enough cooling if the cooing system is in "good knick".
    David Teitelbaum

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