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Thread: Inconel Tabs - Difference between hex and round head version? (manual vs auto)

  1. #1
    Senior Member DL4567's Avatar
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    Inconel Tabs - Difference between hex and round head version? (manual vs auto)

    Hi Guys,

    Does anyone know why there are two different versions of the DMCMW/DMCH inconel tabs? I know the automatics are harder to install, but can't imagine the round head making that any easier.

    https://store.delorean.com/catalogse...ult/?q=inconel

    https://store.delorean.com/106883ia-...oc-nuts-1.html
    https://store.delorean.com/106883ia-...yloc-nuts.html
    Derek L
    VIN 5302

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    My VIN:    767 (3.0L EFI/EDIS)

    My guess (and it's only a guess, from having to fix a broken bolt in my trailing arm mount) is that it's just hard to get a wrench on the hex bolt vs. the Allen bolt while the automatic transmission is still in the car. You still won't be able to replace the TABs with the auto trans in place, but if you simply need to remove the nut(s) and slide the bolt back to get the trailing arm off, the Allens are probably going to easier.

    That said, I don't remember the TAB being that hard to get the 19mm wrench onto (a socket won't fit), but it's been a few months now and get broken mount bolt out was the main thing I was focused on.

    -- Joe

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    My guess (and it's only a guess, from having to fix a broken bolt in my trailing arm mount) is that it's just hard to get a wrench on the hex bolt vs. the Allen bolt while the automatic transmission is still in the car. You still won't be able to replace the TABs with the auto trans in place, but if you simply need to remove the nut(s) and slide the bolt back to get the trailing arm off, the Allens are probably going to easier.

    That said, I don't remember the TAB being that hard to get the 19mm wrench onto (a socket won't fit), but it's been a few months now and get broken mount bolt out was the main thing I was focused on.

    -- Joe
    https://support.delorean.com/kb/a72/...arm-bolts.aspx

    I'm currently replacing them on my auto; it's a mess. Going to get some 19mm wrenches today. The support document above suggests they can be taken out on an auto if you loosen the transmission mounts (and use an offset wrench). Looks real tight though - guess I'll find
    out soon.

    I'll do my manual in a few months; hopefully that's a lot easier.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    My VIN:    767 (3.0L EFI/EDIS)

    I had my TABs replaced years ago when I had the transmission replaced, so I don't have first hand knowledge of that. When I had to deal with the broken bolt on the mount, I need to take the trailing arm off. I was able to remove the nuts (holding the bolt with another wrench), then push the bolt as far back as it would go. It stopped when it hit the transmission. I don't remember exactly how high it was hitting.

    Be sured to read the caution note in that link about the lock nut on the mounts. I didn't know about that, which is how I broke the mount bolt (I was just checking ground, so I didn't look up the details of the mounts).

    I'm just glad I broke the rearmost one, since you can sort of reach that lock nut from the outside of the frame, and it was still a huge pain (lots of very small turns, although you only had to break it loose -- I had to remove it to pull the broken bolt bits out). I'm honestly not sure how you'd reach the forward one without removing the transmission. I think you're supposed to do it from the hole inside the frame, but the auto seems to be in the way quite a lot. If you don't have the lock nuts it won't be a problem, and the instructions at that link do imply that you can still do it with the lock nuts, but I'd suggest trying to get that lock nut loose before you go too far. That will probably be the hardest part.

    -- Joe

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    I had my TABs replaced years ago when I had the transmission replaced, so I don't have first hand knowledge of that. When I had to deal with the broken bolt on the mount, I need to take the trailing arm off. I was able to remove the nuts (holding the bolt with another wrench), then push the bolt as far back as it would go. It stopped when it hit the transmission. I don't remember exactly how high it was hitting.

    Be sured to read the caution note in that link about the lock nut on the mounts. I didn't know about that, which is how I broke the mount bolt (I was just checking ground, so I didn't look up the details of the mounts).

    I'm just glad I broke the rearmost one, since you can sort of reach that lock nut from the outside of the frame, and it was still a huge pain (lots of very small turns, although you only had to break it loose -- I had to remove it to pull the broken bolt bits out). I'm honestly not sure how you'd reach the forward one without removing the transmission. I think you're supposed to do it from the hole inside the frame, but the auto seems to be in the way quite a lot. If you don't have the lock nuts it won't be a problem, and the instructions at that link do imply that you can still do it with the lock nuts, but I'd suggest trying to get that lock nut loose before you go too far. That will probably be the hardest part.

    -- Joe
    Ah yes, all very helpful. I spent some quality time under the car yesterday. Everything is so dirty that touching anything results in a face full of dirt. Home Depot predictably was out of offset wrenches, but I
    did pick up a ratcheting box end wrench so was finally able to loosen the driver side enough to spin. I had already got the passenger side off with a socket.

    I previously made the mistake of backing out one of the M8 bolts for the bushing mounts on the driver side into the trailing arm, so my small socket wrench was stuck for some days (you really want to use a box end here),
    and only freed that yesterday. As noted in the guide I linked earlier, the rear ones have locknuts that don't appear on parts guides. Getting a wrench around the nut on the passenger side is proving very difficult due to
    the lines here - also replacing rusty hose clamps here whilst I'm at it.

    As for the transmission mount bolts - as you say, the nuts are a challenge to reach - currently soaking, and I'll try again later. I'm not clear how much it all needs to be loosened or if I need to support the auto
    transmission etc, but I'm replacing all the hardware where possible anyway.

    I'm sure the manual will be a walk in the park when I'm all done - that car in any case didn't spend 10 years in a shipping container.

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