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Thread: New alternator not charging.

  1. #1
    Senior Member davidc89's Avatar
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    New alternator not charging.

    Greetings all!

    I replaced my old Ducellier alternator out with a new one from one of the vendors. I got it installed and now it isn't charging. I checked with a multimeter at the alternator and confirmed it wasn't charging. I hooked up the brown/yellow wire, from the old connector, to the brown wire on the new alternator connector. I cleaned the connections that attach to the post on the alternator as well. From what I read, the other wire on the Ducellier connector does not go any where. Maybe I am missing something?

    Any help would be appreciated!
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  2. #2
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    The brown wire was the 12V sense wire. If you had a pigtail harness plug for the new alternator with all the tails in it, you could connect it to the “S” terminal. It’s technically not required for the DMCH units but it does work. FYI, brown wires are B+
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  3. #3
    Senior Member davidc89's Avatar
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    The connector, for the new alternator, had all the wires cut except the brown wire. I got it from deloreango.
    Everyone is tough through a keyboard

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    New alternator not charging.

    Yeah, that’s typical when you get it from a D vendor. Like I said, it not required for the Alternator. The internal regulator are connected internally for the sense. Downside is that the external wire provides a more realistic voltage level for the car because is shows any voltage drop. Then the regulator would compensate accordingly.

    Have you tested the Brown/Yellow wire for voltage? Do you get a Pulsating batt light with the key On?

    Like this, it’s my car with DMCH C130 Alt.

    https://youtu.be/rNaoxycxAVA
    Last edited by DMC5180; 08-28-2021 at 06:46 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  5. #5
    Senior Member davidc89's Avatar
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    I have not, I will check. If it doesn't have voltage, where does that wire go? I don't think I have a battery light pulsating... I'm not sure my light has ever worked. Might be burnt out.
    Everyone is tough through a keyboard

  6. #6
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    New alternator not charging.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidc89 View Post
    I have not, I will check. If it doesn't have voltage, where does that wire go? I don't think I have a battery light pulsating... I'm not sure my light has ever worked. Might be burnt out.
    A functional BATT light is required. I believe if you ground Brown/yellow wire, it will make the the light come on if the circuit is good. I’ll check the wire diagram to confirm though.

    Go to the RESOURCES section > All Wire Schematics. First post, second diagram.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 08-28-2021 at 07:13 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #7
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    A functional BATT light is required. I believe if you ground Brown/yellow wire, it will make the the light come on if the circuit is good. I’ll check the wire diagram to confirm though.
    That's right.


    ...and you don't want to use a LED for the BATT light.

  8. #8
    Senior Member davidc89's Avatar
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    Looks like I will have to check that the battery light in the dash isn't burnt out. I'd imagine I'll be taking the binnacle out
    Everyone is tough through a keyboard

  9. #9
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidc89 View Post
    Looks like I will have to check that the battery light in the dash isn't burnt out. I'd imagine I'll be taking the binnacle out
    Make sure the bulkhead connection in the engine bay is good. It never hurts to exercise the connections. It will help rub new contact areas in the terminals. Also look for pins that could be pushed back. Pull fuse 5 and make sure it’s good. A simple 12v test light is good to have for probing for power. A DVM continuity test between Fuse 5 and the Brn/ yel wire at Alt, should tell you if the circuit is good or not. These cars are 40 years old. Frankly I’m surprised yours still had the Ducellier Alternator in it.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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