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Thread: YAVOD (Yet Another Valley of Death) Teardown - Island Twin Turbo Edition

  1. #1
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    YAVOD (Yet Another Valley of Death) Teardown - Island Twin Turbo Edition

    Earlier this spring I turned over my DeLorean for the first time since early winter (went through some steps to winterize, like eth-free gas) and was greeted with coolant sludge pouring out of the valley of death. Decided to therefore take on the much-overdue project of getting down into VOD and touching things up.

    I wanted to keep a bit of a log here and post any questions as they come up. I'm happy to update with more photos or info if folks are interested. I figured it might be a little unique since it's a relatively low VIN and twin-turbocharged.

    Before:
    DSCF3148.jpg

    Removed Turbo Pipes & Rear Fascia
    20210613_221318.jpg

    Current State
    IMG_0129.jpg

    In general, I'm trying not to go too overboard here with restoration. I'd like to keep as much original as possible, but have decided to replace parts with stainless and silicone where it makes sense. As far as I know this is the first VOD teardown the car has seen. Pretty much everything is stock (except exhaust). I really want it to show well & want to fix enough to avoid another VOD teardown for at least 5yrs

    Plan:
    - Replacing all coolant hoses with silicone
    - Buffing aluminum coolant hoses with high grit for a nice shine
    - Replacing coolant reservoir? (see below)
    - Replacing/rebuilding water pump (see below)
    - Moving to Stainless New Style Water Pipe (hope this fits around the turbos!)
    - Replacing fuel lines and banjo with stainless
    - Painting VOD and Engine Block
    - Replacing spark plugs
    - Rebuilding idler pulleys (took off the AC belt and the pulleys are a bit crunchy)
    - Replacing alternator? (see below)
    - Replating yellow zinc components (see below)
    - Rebuilding intake manifold - Stainless bolts, replace butterfly flange, paint, etc.

    Questions:
    - Anyone have recommendations for a good plating service (especially around NH)? I'm looking at doing a DIY yellow zinc plating because I'm really struggling to find someone to do a small batch zinc plating.
    - Seems like replacing the coolant reservoir is pretty mandatory? I really like the look of the plastic, but don't want to risk it.
    - Any suggestions for how much of the water pump to retain? Don't really want to spend too much time restoring this (happy to follow up with some pics once I tear it down). Currently planning on replacing everything except the Thermostat Cover.
    - Alternator is actually 90A Motorola (I think this was done when the turbos were put in in the mid-'80s). It's leaking some mysterious goop and seems to be struggling to keep up with the AC on (though I never got around to checking with a DMM - tsk tsk). Replace it? I love all the options for new units - any suggestions for best alternative?
    - Any suggestions for plugging the cylinders + coolant openings? I really want to scrub this thing, but I'm worried about getting contaminants where they don't belong. Really was hoping to find some 3D models to print for plugs...


    Some stats:
    VIN 1659
    16500 miles
    3-speed automatic
    Island Twin Turbo

    I also have a ton of reference guides and pictures I'm taking as I go. Currently building a Notion page, which I can publish as I go (if there is interest).

    Thanks!!!

  2. #2
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    YAVOD (Yet Another Valley of Death) Teardown - Island Twin Turbo Edition

    Goo from the Alternator is a pretty good indicator it’s done. Time for a replacement. Both of my Motorolas Original and replacement, eventually did that. I now have DMCH CS130

    Be cautious with Silicone hoses in the VOD. They can still leak. I suggest you get some Murry Constant tension clamps for silicone hose. Be sure to torque them to the manufacturer specifications for best results long term. I think you can get them from Jegs or Summit racing.


    I think most folks clean the mating surfaces at the ports then tape over the openings as required. A good sticky polyethylene or duct tape should be fine.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 08-30-2021 at 06:26 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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    Questions:

    - Seems like replacing the coolant reservoir is pretty mandatory? I really like the look of the plastic, but don't want to risk it.
    If it was new and impecable I'd say keep it. But if it's dried out with heat stains, it's likely weakened enough to where it's not safe long term
    - Any suggestions for how much of the water pump to retain? Don't really want to spend too much time restoring this (happy to follow up with some pics once I tear it down). Currently planning on replacing everything except the Thermostat Cover.

    I went for a rebuild through Flying Dutchman. You'll get a higher quality seal and the impeller set to spec for optimal performance at idle. I do recommend sending it with a new pulley as the old ones shouldn't be reused
    - Alternator is actually 90A Motorola (I think this was done when the turbos were put in in the mid-'80s). It's leaking some mysterious goop and seems to be struggling to keep up with the AC on (though I never got around to checking with a DMM - tsk tsk). Replace it?
    Just replace the regulator (held on by two screws in the back) and the brushes (under the regulator).

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Goo from the Alternator is a pretty good indicator it’s done. Time for a replacement.
    Got it! If it's leaking goo, time to renew.

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Be cautious with Silicone hoses in the VOD. They can still leak. I suggest you get some Murry Constant tension clamps for silicone hose. Be sure to torque them to the manufacturer specifications for best results long term. I think you can get them from Jegs or Summit racing.
    This is super neat. I was going off Dave's notes and ordered stainless clamps. Was planning on pressure testing before building everything back up, but I guess I can't be too sure things aren't going to change with temperature and vibration.

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    A good sticky polyethylene or duct tape should be fine.
    Alright, good to know. Wanted to use some gorilla tape, but didn't know if that was a no-no.

  5. #5
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    VOD paint never ever seems to hold up, regardless of prep or paint formula. I've seen a few sets of pics (and one car firsthand) of painted VODs that peeled and left paint shrapnel everywhere, possibly becoming moisture traps in the process.

    You can double-clamp the VOD hoses too for extra security.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  6. #6
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    Updates: Painted VOD and Replaced Most Coolant Hoses

    Just wanted to update this thread. I've completed my teardown and after 10+ hours of cleaning and scrubbing...

    I've gotten from this:
    IMG_0115.jpg

    To this, painted with PoR 15 Engine Enamel:
    IMG_0172.jpg

    And zinc plated as many parts as seemed reasonable at a local shop:
    IMG_0156.jpg

  7. #7
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Looks great!

    I like the look of zinc plating and cad plating. There are some shops in Kansas City that do it but for some reason they only seem to want to plate new hardware. They don't offer a full service where you bring in your grimy old stuff and they clean it, prep it, and plate it. I know the guys at DMCMW have a guy nearby that does do the full service so I'll probably ship some stuff out to get done later this year. At that point I'll take as many brackets and crap as I can find to throw in and get done at the same time!!!
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    Looks great!

    I like the look of zinc plating and cad plating. There are some shops in Kansas City that do it but for some reason they only seem to want to plate new hardware. They don't offer a full service where you bring in your grimy old stuff and they clean it, prep it, and plate it. I know the guys at DMCMW have a guy nearby that does do the full service so I'll probably ship some stuff out to get done later this year. At that point I'll take as many brackets and crap as I can find to throw in and get done at the same time!!!
    Thanks, yeah I had to call around a LOT to find a place that would do small batch zinc plating - had to drive down to MA because apparently you can't do that plating work in NH due to regulations.

    I cleaned the parts up best I could with Brakeleen then found a local shop here in NH to bead-blast for $25, then drove the parts down to MA (Five Star Plating).

  9. #9
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    Those pics are amazing!

  10. #10
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdumont View Post
    Just wanted to update this thread. I've completed my teardown and after 10+ hours of cleaning and scrubbing...

    I've gotten from this:
    IMG_0115.jpg

    To this, painted with PoR 15 Engine Enamel:
    IMG_0172.jpg

    And zinc plated as many parts as seemed reasonable at a local shop:
    IMG_0156.jpg
    Looks really great! It's kind of amazing how transformed the parts look once they are all shiny and re-plated. Great work on that VOD cleanout as well. I've gotta get back in there one of these days on my car.

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