Do these gaskets (or others) require gasket seal, like permatex? Can't seem to find that documentation.
Posts: 30
Do these gaskets (or others) require gasket seal, like permatex? Can't seem to find that documentation.
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Posts: 30
It's been a lot of planning and cleaning, but finally making some progress. Here's the latest with...
- Y-pipe reinstalled
- new coolant reservoir installed
- new water pump
- all new silicone coolant hoses
- new stainless coolant temp sensor
- new spark plugs
All stainless bolts with anti-seize.
IMG_0223.jpg
For better or worse, the turbos are keeping things interesting... You might notice the alternator mounted on the top of engine instead of the bottom. I've actually been able to reverse the sides of the large coolant hoses going to the water pump (shorter one on the left, longer one on the right) to make room for the alternator and turbo pipes. It works ALMOST perfectly with the new replacement coolant temp sensor. It just sticks out about 5 inches too far with a right-angle fitting.
IMG_0220.jpg
My solution is to take ~2-3" off each end of this coolant pipe.
IMG_0224.jpg
I've called a local machine shop to see if they can put the ridge back in the coolant pipe, but honestly not sure how big of a deal this is.
In other news, I didn't realize the alternator belt is not the standard length (I should've checked), so I have a new one on order, as well as a longer tensioner. Once that's done I'll replace the rest of the fuel lines and start putting the air intake manifold back together.
Last edited by kdumont; 11-02-2021 at 11:30 AM.
It would be better to have than not.
Ask around and see if they have a bead roller, which is the best tool for the job. You can weld a bead on but that's way more prep & work. You might be able to find a local club on Facebook or something and someone might have a roller. I have one and am always looking for a chance to make the buy-in price worth it.
If so, you don't need to anneal original pipes as they will roll/bend cleanly as is. If you get stock 1.25" tube to make up a new section you will likely need to torch it first.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
I replaced all my coolant pipes a long time ago. There are a few stock pipes without the bead. Looks like they had to cut those shorter to fit. I've not had any leakage with my silicone hoses on those pipes without the bead.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/