Posts: 954
Yeah I did. I think I'll start with the OEM set up for now. My worry is if I start changing engine electrical stuff and I cant get the engine to run it will make it harder to determine what the issue is.Originally Posted by Timeless
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Location: Mosinee, Wis.
Posts: 632
My VIN: 00778 and Formerly 06770.
FWIW once you move on to carpeting and things of that nature, Toby from Northwest suggested I use this glue by dap. It is their weldwood contact adhesive especially formulated for landau top and trim applications. The can says excellent product for headliners, vinyl trim, Marine interiors, automotive - coverings, door coverings, floor coverings, upholstery, etc. The bad part is I could only find it in a gallon can which should be more than enough. I'm not planning on gluing all of the new carpeting in. Toby recommended the rear wheel arches and the main carpet sections like underneath the door closing areas, etc. I did use it to glue in my rear shelf Dyna pad. This product seems very easy to use and is very forgiving. It remains slightly flexible even after it is cured. It will reactivate if you top coat it.
I'm pleased with it.
I think it's meant for a sprayer, but I had no problems using a cheap disposable brush to brush it on both surfaces. Pro tip: when you are done for the day wrap your paintbrush in tin foil. The glue will not harden and you can reuse the brush the following day. I am on day four with this one. Matter of fact I recommend doing that with any paintbrush or paint roller you use around the house. I think we painted four bedrooms and two hallways all with the same roller over the course of 30 days and some tin foil.
PXL_20240413_170100800.jpgPXL_20240413_170448522.jpgPXL_20240413_170249116.jpg
Posts: 954
Good to know. Yeah I do the paint brush and roller trick also but never used tin foil. I use a grocery bag, zip lock bag, or saran wrap.
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Posts: 954
My wife and I went for our typical Saturday morning run then after we worked on the car. I only ran 5.5 miles so I was done pretty early but she decided to run 20 miles so she was gone for another 3 hours. So we didn't actually get started till around 1P. We worked on it till 8P.
We focused on wiring stuff today. As always nothing was easy.
First up replacing the violet and violet w/white wires for the engine bay light circuit. Basically, the violet wire is constant +12V to the light then the violet w/white wire is the - ground coming through the switch. It's kind of confusing how they did it. Reminds me of the horn circuit on some cars.
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Posts: 954
I didn't have any violet w/white wire so we made some. Not really required but could help to make troubleshooting wiring in the future less confusing.
I bought a pinout kit on Amazon but it didn't work very well at all. Every connector took at least 10 minutes to finagle out of the plug connector. It was a huge pain and we felt like we were always close to seriously screwing something up. We did manage to get the two in the rear facia harness and the ones in the bulkhead connectors. As I am typing this I realize that we still have to do the two going to the light switch.
I bought some new crimpers for doing these special doubled over crimps (sorry don't know the name for it).
Unfortunately these crimpers didn't work right either. The crimp head I needed was too wide to crimp the pins correctly. I don't know...maybe we were using it wrong. I ended using one head to partially crimp the pins. Then I switched back to the correct, but too wide head to finish crimping.
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Posts: 954
I think we found the culprit of what overheated the wiring.
While we were working on the harness we replaced the marker lights wiring.
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Posts: 954
I had bought new LED lights on Amazon so I scoped out installing two of them on the rear closing plate.
Another one of those "While you're in there" we decided to tee off from the violet wires incase we decide to also add some LED lights on the front of the engine bay.
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Posts: 954
The main harness all taped back up and ready to go back together.
A picture of the plug connectors back in the bulkhead plate.
Installed the plates that hold the back interior panel in place. Some black caulking around the studs to stop and water from leaking in.
Positive wire connected.
I had a bunch of copper washers so I used them on the Positive and negative connections.
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Posts: 954
Bulkhead done, bracket for light switch installed, etc.
I scoped out where I may install a light or lights on the front wall of the engine bay. It is kind of hard to make a decision without the other stuff that normally clutters the engine bay being in place. What do you guys think?
Here on the left?
And here on the right?
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Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 1,680
My VIN: 11596
If you're going to put those lights on, I wonder if centered in the sides of the pontoons is actually better? There's not really much to see if you're putting them under the rear window. I feel like the light would be more helpful when it can be dispersed to the sides of the engine.
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Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
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