Well... on my car anyway. YDMV.
It's pretty flimsy, you may be able to just let it hang far enough to get a ratcheting box end wrench on the nuts.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Worked on the car for 4 hours last night.
The wife....okay I'm changing from "the wife" to Tam. The wife just sounds too weird when you keep saying it over and over. Tam cleaned up parts in the glass bead blaster.
I started by spending way too much time trying to fix the melted wiring. If anyone has ever dealt with overheated wiring you know how much of a pain it is. The wiring has melted to insulation so you can't simply strip the insulation off the wire. You have to score the insulation around the OD then score it lengthwise. If you're lucky you can then peel the insulation off the wire. If you're not lucky...like I was, you'll have to tediously, surgically remove the insulation from the wiring one strand at a time and sometimes this doesn't even work. This was my situation.
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I don't have one of the special de-pinning tools so i had to keep constant tension on the wire while also trying to depress the tabs on the pin. After 15 minutes of pain and suffering I was able to get the first pin removed.
The connection is very tightly made and didn't want to open up. At this point I decided I just needed new pins or a good section of wire with a good pin attached still. Then I'll cut back the car end and splice it in. I messaged Josh at D-Ind. He said that they keep compromised harnesses just for this reason. Sweet!
I told him I need the violet and violet with white as long as he could get me. At least 4" would be good.
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This got me thinking....what does the OTHER SIDE of this wiring run look like? So I climbed up on the mezzanine where the rear facia is stored and checked the wiring. Sure enough...same thing. Violet and violet with white melted. Also I discovered what caused the meltdown. It looks like the wires chafed through and shorted out. Mystery solved. So I'll need this wiring also. From the plug connector to the loads or at least several feet out. Looking at this plug connector with female connections I am not sure how they would get removed from the plug connector...even with a special tool.
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I stuffed the wiring harness into the car for now. Hopefully Josh or someone can hook me up with these wires. Next I removed the grounding lug. Kind of tricky because it just ends up spinning even though it is in a square hole. So you can either jam two nuts together on the stud or reach waaaaaaaay in through the right pontoon with a pair of pliers to hold it whole you or someone else loosens the nut. I couldn't seem to find another nut the correct size so I used some small Visegrips.
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I took another stab at trying to remove the engine cover hinges. People on FB claimed that the long trim piece could be flexed enough to remove it and that the side trim pieces could be pushed back to gain more clearance. This didn't work for me unfortunately. I thought "Okay maybe they had these bracket plates removed." I mean it was hitting on them so maybe that was the problem. Besides I kind of wanted to remove them to clean up the studs and paint them.
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Well this was easier said than done. The factory sound deadener needed to be removed first. The thought of this didn't bother too much since it probably should be replaced anyways. I had to fight for every inch though pulling and jamming a putty knife in there repeatedly.
Next issue, the brackets were glued onto the body with something. I almost broke my putty knife trying to get the passenger side off.
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After all of that I STILL couldn't get the trim piece down. I just ended up pulling it down as far as I dared to and using a 1/4" drive ratchet with a shallow socket to remove the nuts. There are two nuts on each hinge and they came off too hard to use your fingers but loose enough that using a ratchet seemed ridiculous. It was a huge pain but I'm glad we removed the hinges. They were really rusty.
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