Posts: 937
While Tam was blasting the hinges I separated the charcoal canister from the panel and hoses so I can clean it and paint the panel. I keep the plugs and caps off anything that comes through our HVAC shop so I was able to find plugs to seal off the canister.
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Posts: 937
After the hinges were cleaned up I could see that one was bent so it was crooked and the other was buckled a bit. With some work I was able to get them pretty straight.
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Location: Co
Posts: 331
My VIN: 2245
The reason they use stainless steel bolts with non stainless nuts is so they won't gall together. I had it happen on my trailer, I was was installing stainless bolts and nuts. most had no problem going on but one started binding, I tried to get it off and it froze. I had to use a hacksaw to get it off. Since then I use plated nuts with stainless bolts, or you could use some anti seize.
Since you got those hinges off, you might want to replace them with the stainless version. Use plated nuts with them, If you don't want the stainless hinges I'd stick with the originals. The DMCH versions are garbage, like all their reproduction parts. The threats pop off if you look at them wrong.
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 461
My VIN: 16506
Club(s): (DCO) (DCUK)
They are also conical shaped where the thread meets the bracket so they do not sit flush on the pontoon not fitting down into the holes. I bored out my pontoon a little bit and also slathered some black rtv in there to make water tight.Originally Posted by r00b
Shannon Y
www.ohiodeloreans.com
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1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) -- original
2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) -- original from donor
3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) -- DMCH
4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) -- DMCH
5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) -- DMCH
6th angle drive - OVER 113,704 miles and counting (OVER 13 yr 1 month & counting) -- new Martin Gutkowski unit
over 245K miles
Posts: 937
Thanks for the info guys.
Regarding the use of S.S. nuts with S.S. bolts I have never heard of this before. I have heard of and experienced this (galling and galvanic corrosion) when using dissimilar metals such as S.S. bolts in aluminum.
If I am putting S.S. nuts in aluminum I use anti-sieze but not aluminum based anti-seize. I use copper anti-seize. I'm not 100% sure I agree with there being an issue when using S.S. with S.S. I used to work on the HVAC and refrigeration systems on ocean going vessels and the standard practice on boats exposed to a salty environment was to use S.S. for all hardware. Nuts, bolts, washers, etc. and I never experienced an issue.
I could be wrong though...I have certainly been wrong before.
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Posts: 1,250
They don?t always gall, but I will confirm it does happen. Dissimilar metal corrosion is a different problem. Not really heard of it between bolts and nuts. More of an issue where a steel plate gets bolted to a aluminum plate type of thing. I think I would use anti-seize on big SS hardware. Anything big enough to be a pita if it were to gall.
Posts: 937
Yeah we just slather everything with anti-sieze.
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Posts: 937
We worked on the car for 4 hours tonight. Tam blasted parts then painted them with semi-gloss black engine paint (gas resistant).
I started trying to mask off things for painting the engine bay and pontoons. At the same time I kept thinking about removing the side panels so that I didn't have to try masking everything off and so I could better paint the pontoons near the window area. I couldn't help myself. I decided to go for it.
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Posts: 937
I started by trying to remove the screws from the bottom of the black plastic trim piece. Every screw either snapped off or stripped out. Fun...
So I drilled out the stripped screws. Now you can't just go hog wild drilling because the heat starts melting the plastic. So you have to drill a while, stop, drill a while, stop...so on.
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Posts: 937
I removed the door gasket and then the sheetmetal screws. These came out easy. The rest of the bolts snapped off, stripped out, you name it.
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