RE:Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
2. I don't remember any shims?? (Check out the 2nd pic HERE.)
(FWIW, the springs should exert .1 bar, assembled, iirc.)
3. Four slits partially blocked?
4. Ya distorted the diaphragm during assembly?
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,176
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
RE:
2. I don't remember any shims?? (Check out the 2nd pic HERE.)
(FWIW, the springs should exert .1 bar, assembled, iirc.)
3. Four slits partially blocked?
4. Ya distorted the diaphragm during assembly?
Posts: 929
Shims are in your pics. Aluminum washers.
What is the aluminum circle in this pic???
Screenshot_20211125-210543.jpg
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,176
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I don't see any washers in the pic I pointed to (only "spring cups")...
If you're asking about the circle that's off center at ~4 o'clock, that is the end of an adjustment screw found only in the adjustable style FD.
You mentioned six springs, six "spring cups", and 12 shims earlier. I'm wondering if you have a mix of styles...
The adjustable style should have 6 upper "spring cups" that the adjusting screws push against, 6 springs and 6 lower "spring cups" that rest against the diaphragm.
(Check out this vid at 11:00, and 11:44.)
I don't remember the the non-adjustable having upper "spring cups". I could be wrong there, but there are no shims in the parts I have for two non-adjustable FDs I have torn down in my bones box (just looked). (Maybe I've lost them and my mind... ;-)
When you tear it down again, post pics of what you have.
Posts: 929
See attached pics20211126_110546.jpg20211122_171300.jpg
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Location: Houston
Posts: 706
My VIN: 16113
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
That's right!
Shannon
Posts: 929
Well, I give up. We tried after more things with no luck whatsoever. Put on the new fuel distributor hoses without the injectors. Ran the fuel pump and pushed the intake disk all the way down to try to flush a bunch of fuel through the distributor. We did this a few times. Then put empty water bottles on the injector hoses. The same thing happened again. The hose for cylendars #1 and #3 constantly feeding a bunch of fuel. Other hoses feeding little or no fuel.
Took EVERYTHING APART AGAIN. Opened up the fuel distributor AGAIN. Found a tear in o ring on the center tube.
Looked more closely at the metal diaphragm this time. Noticed dimples on it from it contacting the nozzles. As one might expect there were no dimples on #1 & #3. So this verifies what we were thinking. For some reason these two ports are never closing off. My wife measured everything again. She thought she had it figured out. She swapped around some springs. We put everything back together. Put the distributor on the car and hooked EVERYTHING BACK UP AGAIN.
Guess what? The same thing happened. Lines #1 & #3 constantly fed fuel.
We are done...time to get the distributor rebuilt by a professional.
Anyone ever used Special T Auto for a WUR or fuel DISTRIBUTOR? Their prices are a lot less than anywhere else.
On a positive note the fuel pressure test kit that I ordered showed up this week.
20211127_152413.jpg20211127_153452.jpg20211127_163039.jpg
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Last edited by SupercoolBill; 11-27-2021 at 09:18 PM.
Posts: 929
The morale of the story....if you try to rebuild your own fuel distributor DO NOT,....I repeat DO NOT mix up where the springs and shims were located or you will probably never get the distributor to work correctly.
That little mistake cost us $800
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,176
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
lol...I can't count the shims/washers in that pic much less see them very well...
I'm with Bitsy, sounds like the nozzles aren't flush with the mating surface.
If you want, check them with a straight edge and if that is clearly the case, I'll swap heads with you, if you pay the shipping.
Does your original plate have dimples?
Posts: 929
Ron, sorry is don't have a better pic of the shims. They are basically just little washers, 12 total. None of them look the same as what you posted. What you poated looks like a top hat.
The old diaphragm has slight dimples but not at prominent as with the new one now.
Just had a thought. I put bolts in all of the ports to block them to glass beads blast the FD so I wouldn't get any media inside of it. Not all of the bolts were really short like I wanted so I had to stack up sealing washers on those ones. I specifically remember tightening one bolt in and meeting resistance before the sealing washers got tight so I took it back out and added more washers.
I am wondering if I inadvertently pushed down several of the nozzles. I thought that we checked it with a straight edge but maybe not. So if this is the case the reason that #1 & #3 is feeding when the others aren't isn't because THEY are the issue,...it is because the other nozzles are protruding too far.
Could this be possible? Could the other ports being "too tightly closed off" be causing the other ports to constantly feed fuel?
I might have to pop it open one more time. If the nozzles are protruding too far how should I push them back? 1/4" drive socket over the nozzle? Flat surface with some high grit emery paper? Or....just get a new top? Or just send it out to a pro?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
I wonder how the nozzles are held in. I would think they have to be sealed real well so suspect they are glued in. I would guess the whole assembly is then surfaced on a surface grinder.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Dave M vin 03572