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Thread: Clutch pedal

  1. #1
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    Clutch pedal

    On my car, I have to push the clutch right to the floor to get it to completely disengage. When I say “to the floor”, I mean until the metal of the clutch pedal hits the metal of a brace down there. I have carpet against the brace and it is being cut by the pedal bar. This doesn’t seem right.

    I looked closely and I notice the pedal will move about 1/2” before anything happens. (It’s just compressing the spring) The pedal moves and the linkage moves, but the pin moves that far before contacting the piston. It seems to me if the pin from the linkage was a 1/2” longer, everything would work better. Has anybody else run into this?

    The only adjustment I see is a pedal stop on the “up” side. I could adjust it so I get rid of the 1/2” play, but that doesn’t stop me from hitting the floor. Is it possible the piston is not coming back completely? (It’s a new cylinder)

    IÂ’m thinking of welding a longer pin to push the piston right away.

    Edit, does everybody see these Swedish “A”s next to my quotation marks? What causes that? It only does it on this forum.
    Last edited by Helirich; 11-09-2021 at 10:13 PM.

  2. #2
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    The clutch master is not that difficult to remove just a little time. I would rather fix or replace than put a bandaid on it.
    I replaced my master and slave this year. I lost clutch hydraulics altogether on a drive. Luckily I was on my way home. Had to start the car in gear at stops.


    Dave B.

  3. #3
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Edit, does everybody see these Swedish “A”s next to my quotation marks? What causes that? It only does it on this forum.
    No idea why it didn't do it in the portion quoted above... For the others, I'm seeing Unicode characters (8220 and 8221). Try setting your browser's encoding to Western ISO-9959-1 if you can.
    Post in the forum support section if no luck.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHO1DMC View Post
    The clutch master is not that difficult to remove just a little time. I would rather fix or replace than put a bandaid on it.
    I replaced my master and slave this year. I lost clutch hydraulics altogether on a drive. Luckily I was on my way home. Had to start the car in gear at stops.


    Dave B.
    As I said in the OP, the master is new. (Less than a year) Are you saying there is no lost motion on yours?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    No idea why it didn't do it in the portion quoted above... For the others, I'm seeing Unicode characters (8220 and 8221). Try setting your browser's encoding to Western ISO-9959-1 if you can.
    Post in the forum support section if no luck.
    Where do I find “browser encoding”?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    As I said in the OP, the master is new. (Less than a year) Are you saying there is no lost motion on yours?
    Sorry it was late I missed that it was new.

    No. Constant pressure all the way through. Just for clarification I put in all DMCH components. Plus I reverse bleed mine.



    Dave B.

  7. #7
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    Try rebleeding the clutch hydraulics. If that doesn't work you probably have to replace the clutch. You should get release way before you get to the floor.
    David Teitelbaum

  8. #8
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    ...does everybody see these Swedish “A”s next to my quotation marks?
    The term "Swedish “A”s" was a new term for me. Funny, because because I am Swedish myself... but I see what you're saying. You are referring to the three letters: Ĺ, Ä and Ö.
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  9. #9
    Junior Member Dickey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    On my car, I have to push the clutch right to the floor to get it to completely disengage. When I say “to the floor”, I mean until the metal of the clutch pedal hits the metal of a brace down there. I have carpet against the brace and it is being cut by the pedal bar. This doesn’t seem right.

    I looked closely and I notice the pedal will move about 1/2” before anything happens. (It’s just compressing the spring) The pedal moves and the linkage moves, but the pin moves that far before contacting the piston. It seems to me if the pin from the linkage was a 1/2” longer, everything would work better. Has anybody else run into this?

    The only adjustment I see is a pedal stop on the “up” side. I could adjust it so I get rid of the 1/2” play, but that doesn’t stop me from hitting the floor. Is it possible the piston is not coming back completely? (It’s a new cylinder)

    IÂ’m thinking of welding a longer pin to push the piston right away.

    Edit, does everybody see these Swedish “A”s next to my quotation marks? What causes that? It only does it on this forum.

    Any chance you took a picture of the two MCs where you can reference if the piston is legitimately 1/2" further inboard on the new one or perhaps kept the old MC on hand to compare against? I've made plenty of custom pedal pins over the years for my cars but I've only ever had to do it when I wanted to use a clutch or brake master cylinder that wasn't meant for the pedal assembly that was in the car.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Try rebleeding the clutch hydraulics. If that doesn't work you probably have to replace the clutch. You should get release way before you get to the floor.
    That’s what I was thinking. It’s been a few months since I changed the master. I’m not really sure if the clutch pedal has always required full travel to release. The fluid is still full. I wonder if the piston got hung up somehow. I’m literally just pushing the spring for the first inch on the pedal. That translates to about 1/2” on the actual pin that pushes the piston. If it would be pushing the piston immediately, it would be so much nicer.

    I need to investigate more.

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