Hylomar AF would go on as smoothly as grease but it's a bit sticky compared to grease. I think I would lay the thinnest bead possible, spread it a little with a plastic tool, and set the metal gasket on and press down. You could also use your finger to spread it but wipe your finger off repeatedly to make sure you don't spread it where you don't want it. Make sure you don't have so much product on it that it squeezed out under the gasket. If it looks good, I'm sure it is now sealed, so I would do exactly the same on the other half.
That said I've never used shellac so I don't know how easy that stuff is to use. But I do have some experience with Hylomar so it's my go-to now. It would be nice to use on that metal gasket because the Hylomar doesn't set. If you ever need to go back in there again you won't risk bending the gasket trying to get it off of a set bonding agent like Loctite.
Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
+1
I've put a full kit in several. I used the shellac in the How To on the first one. It is still OK. But the second one weeped. I tried Permatex spray sealer on it (new plate), but it weeped. I cleaned it up and installed it dry (same plate) and it is still OK. Ever since then, I've put them together dry and had good luck.
As mentioned, the trick is to be surgically clean!
Posts: 256
Good question- I got conflicting information on that and finally used the pattern and torque(s) shown here:
https://k-jet.biz/wp-content/uploads...ributor-V2.pdf
Posts: 256
Done!! 20211120_124404.jpg20211120_171323.jpg
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Posts: 256
Used a permatex sealant from Napa. It said "similar to Hylomar" on the package.
It didn't appear to have any sealant on it when I took it apart.
I wonder if the pieces are lapped to match and the diaphragm is supposed to be the gasket so to speak.
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