The only correct resolution at this point is to get a second DeLorean.
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
The only correct resolution at this point is to get a second DeLorean.
Posts: 1,242
I understand the OP. I love driving my 5 speed……………except in crawling bumper to bumper traffic. Ever been on I-95 crawling for five miles? Not quite ready to trade for the auto……yet.
Posts: 4,807
My VIN: 3937
Auto trans fluid cooler pipe (just a coolant pipe on manuals, but is a little heat exchanger between ATF and coolant on the autos. You'll need the pipe, bracket and connection hoses if they aren't already dangling from your donor auto trans).
ATF dipstick tube and bracket (top of tube attaches to front side of engine).
Additional vacuum tubing connection that runs from the front tip of the auto trans back to the engine block (you'll need the little rubber hose off the vacuum modulator, the tube itself and the brackets that hold it in place).
Auto pedal box (and auto trans uses a larger brake pedal rubber pad too).
The diagnostics plug contraption that comes off the shift computer attaches right near the ballast resistor (bracket may be needed). Most of the other shift computer connections go right into the trans and are just zip tied out of the way... which is important because one of them goes above the exhaust crossover pipe and needs to not be lying on it getting melted).
Auto trans mounts (complete set for both sides including frame bracket and trans bracket, rubber middle, nuts, bolts, washers, etc.)
The shifter style changed part way through the VINs. Whichever style you go with, you'll need those clips and pieces and whatnot that were meant for it as it's not all interchangeable.
A special 5-point harness seatbelt assembly to hold you back firmly in that seat... you know, because of the neck-breaking added performance from the automatic.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Posts: 19
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
The pedal return spring and bushings have little to nothing to do with the weight of the clutch pedal. The pedal weight is a function of the diaphragm spring on the clutch pressure plate, and the ratio of diameters between the master and slave cylinders. Some clutch pressure plate springs are heavier than others. I remember Hervey used to sell multiple different pressure plates with different clamp forces; not sure what the current Valeo offering is. In the LS DMC world, most of us are now using an aftermarket 350z pressure plate and wow do they have a heavy spring; significantly higher than stock.
I don't recall off hand what the stock cylinder bores are (I know Josh S. has played around with them a bit though), but the stiffness of the pedal is also based on the difference in bore diameters. The smaller the master cylinder bore is compared to the slave cylinder, the easier the pedal will be to press because you're moving less fluid per unit of stroke. The downside here is that you'll have to push the pedal farther because you still need to displace the same overall amount of fluid if you want to disengage the clutch.
In the end it's all about finding a balance between bore and stroke length. You could make the pedal as light as a feather if the master cylinder bore was small enough, but you'd be moving so little fluid as you pushed the pedal that you'd need a mile of stroke to disengage the clutch.
Location: Austin MN
Posts: 580
My VIN: 03500
Well we need a person with adventurous spirits to come up with a boosted clutch alternative. There's probably going to be a market for it in the near future. Just saying because we have a power steering alternative and we're not getting younger.😁
Dave B.
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
If it's that important to you, you could play around with it yourself. Wilwood's line of compact remote reservoir master cylinders can be made to fit the DeLorean's clutch system fairly easily.
https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...ter%20Cylinder
They have bores ranging from 13/16" down to 1/2". According to a post I read on the UK Forum, the stock bore size is 13/16" so there should be plenty of opportunity to test lowering the bore. I've considered looking into it myself but the weight of the pedal (even with the big pressure plate) has never bothered me enough to do so.
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
This has been done before by Tom Neiland, with a remote mount master cylinder (the type mounted under the floor in hot rods)
It was found it provided too much assist and made the clutch feel extremely vague almost undrivable.
I modified my pedal box (actually started with an automatic box) to make as long of a clutch pedal as possible and benefit from the leverage. The stock clutch pedal setup has very little leverage and extra friction due to multiple linkages. its a very poor design.
I have a very heavy performance clutch and the pedal is comfortable.
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Posts: 743