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Thread: Shift linkage pivot bolt

  1. #11
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    961

    My VIN:    11596

    Great resource, thanks for the link. Are you sure there's supposed to be a washer under the bolt head though? The bulletin mentions the bell crank having a chamfered edge for the bolt which makes it sound like a washer would defeat it. I haven't pulled my crank out yet though so not quite sure I can confirm?

    My front and rear rods seem to have zero bushing remaining - they are loose on the crank. I guess it all deteriorated over the years and perhaps that slop contributes to binding of the crank which in turn unscrewed my pivot bolt out of the frame? I did find that bulletin and I'll check to make sure it's within spec before reinstalling.

    Slightly worried about using red loctite as it seems you need either an impact or heat to remove whatever was fastened. Is that what Grady recommended? I was going to use blue loctite.

    I'll post some pictures and an update tomorrow afternoon.
    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  2. #12
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    2,304

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    Great resource, thanks for the link. Are you sure there's supposed to be a washer under the bolt head though? The bulletin mentions the bell crank having a chamfered edge for the bolt which makes it sound like a washer would defeat it. I haven't pulled my crank out yet though so not quite sure I can confirm?

    My front and rear rods seem to have zero bushing remaining - they are loose on the crank. I guess it all deteriorated over the years and perhaps that slop contributes to binding of the crank which in turn unscrewed my pivot bolt out of the frame? I did find that bulletin and I'll check to make sure it's within spec before reinstalling.

    Slightly worried about using red loctite as it seems you need either an impact or heat to remove whatever was fastened. Is that what Grady recommended? I was going to use blue loctite.

    I'll post some pictures and an update tomorrow afternoon.
    You're welcome.

    Are you sure there's supposed to be a washer under the bolt head though?
    This Pivot Bolt was an upgrade from Grady and as I recall, it was slightly longer, so it needed the 3 washers as shims. It was discussed here:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...vot-Bolt-Depth
    Now that I think about it again and remember the shoulder bolt concept, perhaps all 3 washers were placed on top with the 2 wavy washers between the larger washer and the bellcrank (to add slight tension to the assembly to prevent the slop discussed in the thread). I can't honestly remember definitively, but I know the final installation had the washers in a different sequence than they were in the picture I took. Regardless, I remember being able to draw full torque on the pivot bolt without binding the bellcrank. It was free moving but not sloppy. That should be the goal.

    If you are using the stock setup with DMC's superceded pivot bolt, I would follow the Bulletin/DMC instructions and ensure the chamfer is in spec etc. and you have proper movement without binding or excess play.

    I guess it all deteriorated over the years and perhaps that slop contributes to binding of the crank which in turn unscrewed my pivot bolt out of the frame?
    Perhaps. By replacing the parts above and cleaning, lubing and installing the bushing kit, it made a world of difference in my shifting performance.

    Is that what Grady recommended? I was going to use blue loctite.
    I can't remember, and maybe it was my choice to avoid a tow because of this part failing, so I would recommend using whatever you're comfortable with.

    Good luck with the project.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #13
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    961

    My VIN:    11596

    I fixed my bell crank yesterday. First, here's a comparison of a John Hervey-supplied pivot bolt (over 20 years old) vs a current DMCMW pivot bolt:

    PXL_20211124_191637943.jpg

    Hervey bolt on left, DMCMW on the right. As you can see, the Hervey bolt doesn't have as many threads. This means you cannot get a normal nut or nyloc nut on the threads sticking out of the frame - you can barely get a thin jamb nut to hold on. The turning of the bell crank with each shift has the effect of loosening this bolt if you cannot secure it on the back side. So, to the trash can it goes.

    There is some debate regarding how to install the crank and with what washers. The printed part manual I have from Grady does not agree with the illustration on delorean.com in 4-2-0, and of course there is also the service bulletin discussing the crank and adding washers under it. I ended up using a washer under the bolt head (between the head and the crank) as shown in the original parts manual (delorean.com does not show this washer) and NO washers under the crank. I consulted with Mike at DMCMW on this. He also mentioned this is a common failure area and advises checking the tightness of the pivot bolt and nut every year or / each oil change.

    Anyway I greased the pivot bolt and top and bottom surfaces of the crank with a mixture of lithium grease and copper antiseize, tightened the pivot bolt to a medium tightness (no way to get a torque wrench in there) and then secured a standard nut to the bolt threads coming out the other side with blue loctite. I also replaced the rubber bushings, washers, and nyloc nuts on the levers so everything is fresh.

    My shifter is butter smooth, snickety-snick now and I'm sure this will be a lasting repair.

    So, if you have a Hervey pivot bolt - better check this out!!!!
    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  4. #14
    Member cis6409's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  ireland

    Posts:    91

    My VIN:    6409

    Club(s):   (DOC-UK) (DOI)

    Most excellent thread, very interesting!

    I will be refurbishing my gear linkage soon and it will come in very handy for it , great timing

    Shane
    Last edited by cis6409; 11-25-2021 at 11:22 AM.
    only from the past can we choose the correct path for the future...

  5. #15
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    961

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by cis6409 View Post
    Most excellent thread, very interesting!

    I will be refurbishing my gear linkage soon and it will come in very handy for it , great timing

    Shane
    First I tried to add two washers under the bellcrank as per the service bulletin but I was getting a lot of binding when trying to turn the crank to check for smooth operation. After talking to Mike, he didn't think they were necessary so I took them out and just set the crank in without the washers. After tightening the bolt, it felt a bit stiff while moving it by itself under the car, but once the levers were attached and I used the shifter in the car it felt fantastic. So tight and precise once again. I will make sure to remove it every couple of years and give a good grease as it's just going to have to be another maintenance item.

    I have been bad about fluid changes (antifreeze and brake, mostly) so I'm committed now to be on a 2-year schedule where I just go change every fluid and do all the greasing of ball joints, bell crank, silicone grease on bushings, etc.
    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

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