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Thread: DPI radiator remote bleed kit and DPI clutch slave remote bleed kit

  1. #11
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by artisticent View Post
    I also never had an issue with my cooling system prior to the dam heater valve breaking in half while driving....
    Sounds like you are actually quite low on coolant. Let the engine go stone cold and check the header tank, fill it up 2/3 of the way, then start the engine with the cap off. Turn on the heater to full blast. Eventually the thermostat should open and I bet the tank level will drop. Keep topping it up and keep it about 2/3 full. Try to bleed both the radiator upper nipple and the thermostat housing before putting the cap back on. Let the car cool overnight and check the tank again, top off if needed. Eventually it will all even out as long as your thermostat is actually opening (easy to tell by touching the radiator hose that goes into the otterstat pipe).
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Thousand Oaks, CA

    Posts:    242

    My VIN:    16563

    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    Sounds like you are actually quite low on coolant. Let the engine go stone cold and check the header tank, fill it up 2/3 of the way, then start the engine with the cap off. Turn on the heater to full blast. Eventually the thermostat should open and I bet the tank level will drop. Keep topping it up and keep it about 2/3 full. Try to bleed both the radiator upper nipple and the thermostat housing before putting the cap back on. Let the car cool overnight and check the tank again, top off if needed. Eventually it will all even out as long as your thermostat is actually opening (easy to tell by touching the radiator hose that goes into the otterstat pipe).
    Thank you Ill do exactly that. Going to Oreilly now to grab coolant. I hope my heat works. I only use my AC which blast cold being here in Cali. Ill check when im home. Excited to get my car right again. Its usually so reliable I could consider it a daily driver if I needed it to be.
    1983 Delorean-auto, black/gray int. 38k miles

  3. #13
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by artisticent View Post
    Thank you Ill do exactly that. Going to Oreilly now to grab coolant. I hope my heat works. I only use my AC which blast cold being here in Cali. Ill check when im home. Excited to get my car right again. Its usually so reliable I could consider it a daily driver if I needed it to be.
    Good luck, I use regular un-diluated green coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water from the grocery store. A lot cheaper to mix your own and no worse than the pre-mixed.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Thousand Oaks, CA

    Posts:    242

    My VIN:    16563

    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    Good luck, I use regular un-diluated green coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water from the grocery store. A lot cheaper to mix your own and no worse than the pre-mixed.
    Our VIN #s are close if you consider that mine was originally 11xxx before they added 5000 to the vin for the 1983 models....
    1983 Delorean-auto, black/gray int. 38k miles

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