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Thread: Vin10207 vod

  1. #11
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
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    My VIN:    10207

    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    The DPI heater return kit definitely isn't necessary if your metal pipe is still in good shape. Mine wasn't, so I was glad to get rid of it, and replace it with hose which I can get locally if needed should it ever start to leak. The only real trick the DPI kit does is to convert from 3/4" to 5/8" heater hose, which the original OEM hose did via being different sizes at both ends (hard to find locally as well). This makes the heater easier to repair in the future, same day, without waiting for parts.

    WD40 isn't that great for penetrating oil. I like mixing 50/50 acetone and ATF, or Aerokroil which is in a spray can.

    You can put an extremely thin layer of anti-seize on spart plug threads and sensor threads but do not get it on the insulator or sensor elements. A tiny bit of anti-seize is all you should need.
    Thanks! Much appreciated!

    I think I'm beginning to understand the DPI solution here. Because the original setup also has rubber hose => steel tube => rubber hose, the DPI solution is just an easier way to get the same job done and would likely only require new hoses if it started leaking, whereas the stock setup would require either new rubber hoses OR steel tube. Makes perfect sense. Is the DPI rubber plain rubber or some long life variant or sillicone? Do you happen to know that?
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

  2. #12
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrWin View Post
    Thanks! Much appreciated!

    I think I'm beginning to understand the DPI solution here. Because the original setup also has rubber hose => steel tube => rubber hose, the DPI solution is just an easier way to get the same job done and would likely only require new hoses if it started leaking, whereas the stock setup would require either new rubber hoses OR steel tube. Makes perfect sense. Is the DPI rubber plain rubber or some long life variant or sillicone? Do you happen to know that?
    The DPI hoses are silicone. DPI also sells a stainless hose clamp set that will do the entire car for a pretty reasonable price, and they are very good hose clamps, too. If you plan to eventually do every hose on the car, and you should if they are more than 15 years old, then the kit is a good thing to get.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  3. #13
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    The DPI hoses are silicone. DPI also sells a stainless hose clamp set that will do the entire car for a pretty reasonable price, and they are very good hose clamps, too. If you plan to eventually do every hose on the car, and you should if they are more than 15 years old, then the kit is a good thing to get.
    When converting to silicone hoses be sure to use only clamps that are designed for use with silicone hoses. See this link for reasons why:

    https://www.global-hose.com/silicone-hose-clamps

    The DPI silicone hose kit includes such hose clamps which they also sell individually. Other D vendors offering silicone hoses also do this.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    When converting to silicone hoses be sure to use only clamps that are designed for use with silicone hoses. See this link for reasons why:

    https://www.global-hose.com/silicone-hose-clamps

    The DPI silicone hose kit includes such hose clamps which they also sell individually. Other D vendors offering silicone hoses also do this.
    Since we're on the topic, correct clamps should be used on fuel lines too.

    https://www.deloreango.com/us/flexib...cumulator.html

  5. #15
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    The DPI hoses are silicone. DPI also sells a stainless hose clamp set that will do the entire car for a pretty reasonable price, and they are very good hose clamps, too. If you plan to eventually do every hose on the car, and you should if they are more than 15 years old, then the kit is a good thing to get.
    That sounds like something I’d order as well. Been looking for a kit of SS bolts/nuts/washers/spring washers too, for the entire engine bay. Quality hose clamps sound like a great idea.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

  6. #16
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrChocky View Post
    Since we're on the topic, correct clamps should be used on fuel lines too.

    https://www.deloreango.com/us/flexib...cumulator.html
    Whoopsie daisy - I have to look into the entire propper hose clamps thing - I thought there was basically one kind.

    See this is why I’m asking these basic questions, I have a sneaking suspicion that there is more to the basica than I understand. Suspicion confirmed.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

  7. #17
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2020

    Location:  Denmark

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    When converting to silicone hoses be sure to use only clamps that are designed for use with silicone hoses. See this link for reasons why:

    https://www.global-hose.com/silicone-hose-clamps

    The DPI silicone hose kit includes such hose clamps which they also sell individually. Other D vendors offering silicone hoses also do this.
    Thanks! Any reason NOT to use sillicone compatible hose clamps everywhere? (Higher cost?)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

  8. #18
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
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    I would recommend constant tension clamps. I have used them on all my projects over the years and have never had one let go/get loose. I love them. This AMS article references forced induction the same principle applies.

    https://www.turbosmart.com/product-c...e-hose-clamps/

    https://www.amsperformance.com/wp-co...Gear_Clamp.pdf
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  9. #19
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timeless View Post
    I would recommend constant tension clamps. I have used them on all my projects over the years and have never had one let go/get loose. I love them. This AMS article references forced induction the same principle applies.

    https://www.turbosmart.com/product-c...e-hose-clamps/

    https://www.amsperformance.com/wp-co...Gear_Clamp.pdf
    Thanks! I'll have a look, might as well get the best clamps now that I took the time tear the engine apart, I might as well put some quality in to it.
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

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