Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,579
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
You are going to have a hard time getting heated what you need heated. All you can heat is the head of the bolt and what is really stuck is the threaded end on the other side. To get that hot enough you are going to have to heat the head up to cherry red for a while. Even with that, you aren't going to heat it enough but you will soften the head end so much that if you don't let it cool before trying to loosen it, you will just twist it off. Like I said, try just loosening it a tiny bit, spray your favorite stuff on it and then work it back and forth till it comes out or breaks.
David Teitelbaum
Posts: 1,245
That’s one thing about the battery trick. You would expect the most heat at the area of most electrical resistance. We are assuming the threads are rusted/corroded. Rust is a poor conductor, so maybe the most heat would be right where it’s needed. Not sure if that would make it likly to strip the threads out, but at least the bolt/stud should come out.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.
Going with the thin (acetone) phase, that looks like it has ATF dissolved in it. The thick (ATF fase) seems not to be diluted.
DSC_0505.jpg
Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.
Posts: 446
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Posts: 516
My VIN: 3462
Club(s): (DOI)
Heat and a battery powered impact gun that doesn't have alot of torque
Posts: 1,245