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Thread: Loosening stuck bolts w/o shearing?

  1. #21
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

    Posts:    937

    OMG ...this thing blew my mind!!
    I need to get my own!

    I honestly was amazed. I literally don't understand how the wire on this device gets the object so hot so fast. It's like a an oxygen acetylene torch! 20220120_161717.jpg20220121_071033.jpg20220122_144543.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Location:  Florida

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    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Hi,
    I used penetrating oil, tapping the head with a hammer, and patience when removing the Y pipe (and any other stuck engine bolts). Be careful as the bolts are only 7 mm. Don't use a socket/ratchet. Just use a combination wrench and your hand - alternating between loosening and tightening once you get them to crack. The goal is to gently coax them loose. It is very easy to snap these bolts.



    For Exhaust:
    Here is the technique I used when restoring my rusted exhaust:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...l=1#post212310

    If you are working on exhaust manifold studs, be very careful when using heat as the head gasket is nearby. Heat destroys the head gasket. I have seen head gasket jobs suspiciously following exhaust manifold jobs.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #23
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

    Posts:    937

    Nobody has mentioned it, maybe because we are talking about loosening but Left Hand Drill Bits.
    I am always amazed by how many people have never used LEFT HAND DRILL BITS!!
    Even though I hate the name I love using them. They should be called Counter Clockwise drill bits though. Or on the other side of the pond, Anti-clockwise.

    I can't even tell you how many snapped off screws and bolts I have seen just screw themselves out as I was drilling them with LH drill bits. In fact I have had such good luck with LH drill bits that I don't even waste a lot of time trying to remove stuck bolts and screws. I just snap them off, remove the part that was attached, then proceed to drill out the fastener. Screenshot_20220123-133303_DuckDuckGo.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  4. #24
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

    Posts:    2,371

    My VIN:    <2000

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by SupercoolBill View Post
    Nobody has mentioned it, maybe because we are talking about loosening but Left Hand Drill Bits.
    I am always amazed by how many people have never used LEFT HAND DRILL BITS!!
    Even though I hate the name I love using them. They should be called Counter Clockwise drill bits though. Or on the other side of the pond, Anti-clockwise.

    I can't even tell you how many snapped off screws and bolts I have seen just screw themselves out as I was drilling them with LH drill bits. In fact I have had such good luck with LH drill bits that I don't even waste a lot of time trying to remove stuck bolts and screws. I just snap them off, remove the part that was attached, then proceed to drill out the fastener. Screenshot_20220123-133303_DuckDuckGo.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    This reads like an infomercial on left hand drill bits. Lol.

    Yes, I have used these and screw extractors, but the title of the thread is loosening bolts without shearing. IMO, purposefully snapping off bolts only to have to drill them out is asking for extra effort and risk. You only need to have the drill slip off the hardened bolt and then you drill off-center and begin damaging the soft aluminum engine block. It's best to avoid that where possible.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  5. #25
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

    Posts:    937

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    This reads like an infomercial on left hand drill bits. Lol.

    Yes, I have used these and screw extractors, but the title of the thread is loosening bolts without shearing. IMO, purposefully snapping off bolts only to have to drill them out is asking for extra effort and risk. You only need to have the drill slip off the hardened bolt and then you drill off-center and begin damaging the soft aluminum engine block. It's best to avoid that where possible.
    Yeah I eluded to the "off topicness" of my reply but like I said, I run across a lot of people that have never used these or even heard of them.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2020

    Location:  Denmark

    Posts:    244

    My VIN:    10207

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    I admit I’m a poor welder, but I find it nearly impossible to weld rust or aluminum corrosion. Also, welding steel to aluminum is very difficult. Lol. But we all know Murphy will help at times like that.
    At least I'm not gonna go fishing for Murphy on a project like this.
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

  7. #27
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2020

    Location:  Denmark

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    My VIN:    10207

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Hi,
    I used penetrating oil, tapping the head with a hammer, and patience when removing the Y pipe (and any other stuck engine bolts). Be careful as the bolts are only 7 mm. Don't use a socket/ratchet. Just use a combination wrench and your hand - alternating between loosening and tightening once you get them to crack. The goal is to gently coax them loose. It is very easy to snap these bolts.



    For Exhaust:
    Here is the technique I used when restoring my rusted exhaust:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...l=1#post212310

    If you are working on exhaust manifold studs, be very careful when using heat as the head gasket is nearby. Heat destroys the head gasket. I have seen head gasket jobs suspiciously following exhaust manifold jobs.
    Thanks! I'm letting the 4th and last bolt on the Y pipe soak until tomorrow. I got the rest today. That last bolt, I could just barely move it 1/8 rotation, but enough to get som penetrant down there (I hope). I'm gonna hit it with the induction heater (for the 5th time) tomorrow and try again.
    I'll take your advice and use the combination wrench instead of the ratchet.

    Also, thanks for the link, I'm thinking of changing out my exhaust (its rusted through in several places) with a stage 1 exhaust.

    A question, since I noticed that your valve covers are off. Are those bolts hard to loosen as well? I have to get down there to change the gaskets and adjust the valves. I can tell that the recesses in the valve covers are so small that they'll prevent me from using the induction heater. (Hmmm....)
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

  8. #28
    Mad scientist DrWin's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2020

    Location:  Denmark

    Posts:    244

    My VIN:    10207

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    This reads like an infomercial on left hand drill bits. Lol.

    Yes, I have used these and screw extractors, but the title of the thread is loosening bolts without shearing. IMO, purposefully snapping off bolts only to have to drill them out is asking for extra effort and risk. You only need to have the drill slip off the hardened bolt and then you drill off-center and begin damaging the soft aluminum engine block. It's best to avoid that where possible.
    Agree with Dana - I'm super extra risk averse when it comes to the DMC-12. BUT - I like the idea, I gotta get me a set of those.
    Please excuse the crudity of this DeLorean as I didn't have time to repair it yet.
    VIN 10207 - December '81, Gray Interior, 3-speed automatic, stock PRV engine.

  9. #29
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    11596

    Quote Originally Posted by DrWin View Post
    Thanks! I'm letting the 4th and last bolt on the Y pipe soak until tomorrow. I got the rest today. That last bolt, I could just barely move it 1/8 rotation, but enough to get som penetrant down there (I hope). I'm gonna hit it with the induction heater (for the 5th time) tomorrow and try again.
    I'll take your advice and use the combination wrench instead of the ratchet.

    Also, thanks for the link, I'm thinking of changing out my exhaust (its rusted through in several places) with a stage 1 exhaust.

    A question, since I noticed that your valve covers are off. Are those bolts hard to loosen as well? I have to get down there to change the gaskets and adjust the valves. I can tell that the recesses in the valve covers are so small that they'll prevent me from using the induction heater. (Hmmm....)
    Valve cover gasket bolts should not be a problem, they are not getting wet with water like the y pipe bolts sometimes are. Also a lot more likely for the y-pipe bolts to get corroded with dirt and garbage around them because you simply can't see them down there and they don't get cleaned off.

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    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  10. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,250

    Quote Originally Posted by SupercoolBill View Post
    Nobody has mentioned it, maybe because we are talking about loosening but Left Hand Drill Bits.
    I am always amazed by how many people have never used LEFT HAND DRILL BITS!!
    Even though I hate the name I love using them. They should be called Counter Clockwise drill bits though. Or on the other side of the pond, Anti-clockwise.

    I can't even tell you how many snapped off screws and bolts I have seen just screw themselves out as I was drilling them with LH drill bits. In fact I have had such good luck with LH drill bits that I don't even waste a lot of time trying to remove stuck bolts and screws. I just snap them off, remove the part that was attached, then proceed to drill out the fastener. Screenshot_20220123-133303_DuckDuckGo.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    Ha-ha, I don’t know if I would go so far as to snap them off on purpose, but yes, I go right to the left hand bit after braking a bolt. I’ve given up on “easy outs”.

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