Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Door strut retaining plates (108653/108655 or improved versions)

  1. #1
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,284

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Door strut retaining plates (108653/108655 or improved versions)

    Looking for the door strut retaining plates found here: https://www.delorean.com/store/c-308...rutsseals.aspx - P/Ns 108653 and 108655. Grady was also making improved ones for a while but every vendor appears to be out of both original and improved models with no plans to reproduce.

  2. #2
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Dahlonega GA

    Posts:    2,467

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  3. #3
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,284

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by sean View Post
    Oh, nice. Those are an interesting design. I'll get in touch with him with some questions, thanks!

  4. #4
    Senior Member BTTF-1's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    258

    I highly recommend Sean's advise. Replacing the original parts leaves you open to one day replacing them again. I have had these on my D for 2 and 1/2 years. When i replaced the one for the broken door I also replaced the door that was not broken. It is really nice to finally get in and out of the D without having to ask my wife for help.

    Just a thought
    Ed

  5. #5
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,284

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by BTTF-1 View Post
    I highly recommend Sean's advise. Replacing the original parts leaves you open to one day replacing them again. I have had these on my D for 2 and 1/2 years. When i replaced the one for the broken door I also replaced the door that was not broken. It is really nice to finally get in and out of the D without having to ask my wife for help.

    Just a thought
    Ed
    Yeah, I'd do them both. Thanks for the help guys!

  6. #6
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,048

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    I installed Byrne's product about a month ago. It didn't take long to install and know I have a solid mount that is way better than the original design. I really recommend his product.

    It is a little expensive in my opinion, but its easy to install and you should never have to do it again.

  7. #7
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,284

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    I installed Byrne's product about a month ago. It didn't take long to install and know I have a solid mount that is way better than the original design. I really recommend his product.

    It is a little expensive in my opinion, but its easy to install and you should never have to do it again.
    His page says you don't have to remove the T- or quarter panels to install these mounts; what do you do about the potentially bent plate holding the current ball stud? Just unscrew the stud and leave the plates in place behind the T panel, then slide Byrne's mounts in place over them?

  8. #8
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,048

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    His page says you don't have to remove the T- or quarter panels to install these mounts; what do you do about the potentially bent plate holding the current ball stud? Just unscrew the stud and leave the plates in place behind the T panel, then slide Byrne's mounts in place over them?
    Yep. Unscrew the stud, leave the plate in place, and fill in the hole with black RTV to prevent possible leaks.

    Further information on my install can be found here:

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...ght=door+strut

    Really? Why isn't Sean doing his job that he gets paid so well to do?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •