I have a Motive power bleeder for my brakes which I really can't recommend it enough. I've used the "two-man" brake bleed method as well as one-man Mityvac method but I like the Motive power bleeder the most of all. Partly because I no longer have to bother my wife to help!

The Motive model that works with our brake master cylinder is the 0100 European kit. I bought mine on Amazon.

I also wanted to use it on the clutch system but Motive does not have an adapter for the clutch reservoir that works. I tried the 1110 British adapter but it's not the right size.

I read some old topics on DMCTalk where it's said that the cap from a pint of brake fluid works, but all I have is Castrol DOT 4 and that cap didn't work. But what DID work is the cap from a quart of Toro lawn mower oil. I drilled a 1/2" hole in it, then threaded in a teflon-taped hose barb (3/8" NPT to 5/16" barb) that goes into 5/16" ID clear tubing. I added a rubber washer inside the cap. It threads onto the reservoir perfectly and holds 15 PSI. This way I was able to flush and bleed my clutch solo (along with the DeLorean Industries remote clutch bleeder). You can bleed the clutch with the remote from under the car but I prefer to do it above so I have unlimited wrench access. I use a quart glass mason jar with a hole drilled into the lid so I can slide my clear bleeder tubing into the jar. That way it doesn't splash and I don't have to worry about the hose flying out.

Here's the process:
  1. Assemble the reservoir adapter as described and, using another hose barb, connect it to the Motive bleeder. Use blue teflon tape as needed.
  2. Make sure the clutch reservoir is topped up. I use Castrol GT-LMA DOT 4 when available but it looks like it's been superseded by a new Castrol product that is backwards compatible with the old LMA product. I found the best price for the fluid here - I would buy a quart if you want to flush out the clutch and do a great job bleeding it. https://www.roverparts.com/brakes/brake-fluid/2521A/
  3. Screw the adapter to the top of the reservoir
  4. Get the clutch slave bleeder ready by connecting clear tubing the bleed nipple. Have a 6-point box wrench ready to open and close the nipple. I think the original nipple is 8mm. My remote bleeder is 3/8". Put the other end of the clear tubing into a suitable container like the mason jar I described earlier.
  5. Pump up the Motive tank to about 15 PSI. Wait a minute to make sure you don't have any air leaks.
  6. At the slave cylinder, crack open the bleeder until fluid comes out of the hose and into the jar. If there is air in the hydraulics, it will probably come out first but there could be bubbles anywhere along the way as it flushes out. With a slow steady stream, I was able to bleed for about 5 seconds before my reservoir was half-depleted. Do not leave the bleeder open and walk back to the front of the car. Bleed for short intervals and close the bleeder when you need to check the reservoir again.
  7. Keep checking the reservoir, and if you fall below 1/2 full, release the pressure from the Motive by slowly unscrewing the top of it where the handle is, then remove the adapter and top up the fluid in the reservoir. Be careful not to spill and clean up any spills immediately. It will damage paint and frame epoxy.
  8. When you see clear clean fluid coming out and no more bubbles, you are done. Close the bleeder snugly with the box end of the wrench and disconnect your bleed hose. Release the pressure from the Motive tank before removing the adapter from the reservoir. Top up fluid again and screw the cap back on.


A couple other points of inspection while flushing the clutch -
  1. Check the hose between the reservoir and the clutch master cylinder. If it's sweating or looks stressed, replace it.
  2. Peel back the boot on the clutch master from inside the car and check for leakage into the recess. Replace the master cylinder if you find fluid there.
  3. Peel back the boot around the fork pin where it goes into the clutch slave. Mine had a small leak inside the boot which told me I need to replace the slave cylinder.
  4. If you don't have a stainless braided clutch line from the reservoir to the fitting above the transmission, that should be a required upgrade
  5. There are plastic washers between each cylinder and the pipe fitting that screws into it. Have extras on hand before removing those fittings in case they cannot be re-used.


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Inside of my home-made reservoir adapter

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Adapter connected to the reservoir

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Motive pressure bleeder tank, works much like a garden sprayer

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DeLorean Industries remote clutch bleeder positioned into the engine compartment so I can bleed from above (can also do this from below). The Remote bleeder has a bracket and clip that holds it in place near the starter from under the car.