FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD
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Originally Posted by
DMC-Ron
If, when you remove the delay relay, the interior lights do not work at all, check to see if the blue diode is reversed or faulty.
Ron
Attachment 68785
For me the red diode was connected to the interior lights.
I guess if everything was installed properly and never messed with in 40 years it's the blue. I guess I didn't bother to check what was proper because I knew that those diodes are internally all the same except for the white ones. For people that don't know the diode module can be disassembled very easily that means not cutting it open so the diode inside can be replaced for just pennies.
Dave B.
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It has taken some time (for other reasons) but after all the input I finally got it. Thanks!
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So, I have checked the dome lights for on/off and timed out. The rear one works like it should. The front has low voltage when on for the doors opening only. The continuous on is fine. However, sometimes the timing on both goes out immediately instead of timing out. Also, if I push in the door close button the voltage goes to where it should be and light shines bright. Crazy. Is this all a possibility the dome timing relay is bad?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Ricker
So, I have checked the dome lights for on/off and timed out. The rear one works like it should. The front has low voltage when on for the doors opening only. The continuous on is fine. However, sometimes the timing on both goes out immediately instead of timing out. Also, if I push in the door close button the voltage goes to where it should be and light shines bright. Crazy. Is this all a possibility the dome timing relay is bad?
You will get about a 1.5 volt drop with just the door turning on the light because of the two diodes. The OEM dome timer may eliminate some of that voltage drop when it is active. If your running LED dome lights, most people just remove the OEM timer because they get some glow always with LEDs.
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Originally Posted by
Bitsyncmaster
You will get about a 1.5 volt drop with just the door turning on the light because of the two diodes. The OEM dome timer may eliminate some of that voltage drop when it is active. If your running LED dome lights, most people just remove the OEM timer because they get some glow always with LEDs.
I still have the original dome lights (no LEDs). The voltage is about 2 volts, not just a drop - the light barely goes on - just a low red glow on the filament. I pull the relay and the rear light still comes on with the door open and the front light has that red filament glow (low voltage) BUT the front red glow filament goes out if the rear door open light position is turned off from that position.
Somehow the lights are connected to each other, the time-out relay and the doors switches. They just do funny things like the front light getting voltage.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Ricker
I still have the original dome lights (no LEDs). The voltage is about 2 volts, not just a drop - the light barely goes on - just a low red glow on the filament. I pull the relay and the rear light still comes on with the door open and the front light has that red filament glow (low voltage) BUT the front red glow filament goes out if the rear door open light position is turned off from that position.
Somehow the lights are connected to each other, the time-out relay and the doors switches. They just do funny things like the front light getting voltage.
The front and rear dome lights get grounded through separate diodes. Sounds like one of your diodes may be bad.
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