Car stuck in "on" position no matter what position key is in

[Boxbot]

Went to start car today. I turned the key to the start position. The car didn't turn over at all - but all electronics came on. I tried to start the car a second time. Moving the key to the start position did nothing. (no cranking at all). Moving the key to the off position (or even pulling the key out of the ignition) did not do anything.

Had to pop start the car to get it home, then once home, I had to disconnect battery to get it to turn off. What part do I need to fix this? the ignition turns freely, but doesn't do anything.

[dmcnc]

If your car is automatic, shift to neutral and see if it turns on.

[Boxbot]

If your car is automatic, shift to neutral and see if it turns on.

It's a manual. There's no neutral safety switch.

[David T]

Either a problem with your ignition switch or a stuck relay.

[Boxbot]

Either a problem with your ignition switch or a stuck relay.

How would I diagnose?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Since you have two problems, power stays on and won't crank, the ignition switch is the common thing that I would guess to be at fault.

[Boxbot]

Since you have two problems, power stays on and won't crank, the ignition switch is the common thing that I would guess to be at fault.

That makes sense. I will check the relays to be sure, but will then take the canopy off the steering wheel and make sure I don't have a short or something. If not, I'll order an ignition switch and ignition switch actuator. Am I good to order from DMC or is there a better part out there? Thanks!

[David T]

That makes sense. I will check the relays to be sure, but will then take the canopy off the steering wheel and make sure I don't have a short or something. If not, I'll order an ignition switch and ignition switch actuator. Am I good to order from DMC or is there a better part out there? Thanks!

Before you go taking things apart it is easier to unplug the ignition switch under the dash and, using a meter, verify if the switch is working as it should. DMCH should have whatever you need but it is best to only order what you need and to do that you should do some testing first. if you do have to take the column apart, and you have the older 2 key system, this would be a good time to upgrade to the 1 key system.

[dmcman73]

How would I diagnose?

With the battery connected and the ignition in the off position, from the auxiliary relays that are under the metal shelf (these are the large metal ones next to each other) put a probe on the connecter on the relay that has the thinner White/Blue wire (there are two w/b wires on one of them, you want to check the thinner gauge one). If there is voltage on that line with the key in the off position, then the fault is at the ignition switch. This wire is what energizes the relay. If there is no voltage on the thinner w/b wire, then check the thick w/b wire. If the thicker w/b wire has voltage on it while the thinner w/b wire has no voltage then your relay is bad. This relay with the White/Blue wires supplies power to items like the radio, clock, a/c panel lights. etc.

There is also the other auxiliary relay right next to it that has two white wires going to it. Perform the same steps as above (except on the thinner white wire and thicker white wire). This relay supplies power to the RPM relay, Ignition ECU, Idle speed, wipers and directional switch. Since this relay supplies power to a lot of devices for the engine, I would test it as you turn the key to start, there should be power on the thinner white wire as you crank the engine as well as power on the thicker white wire.

The difference between the two axillary relays is that when you crank the engine, the aux relay with the white/blue wire should not have any power to it, it should only have power to it when the ignition switch is in the on and run positions and be off during the start (crank) position). The aux relay with the white wire should be on in all ignition switch positions.

[Boxbot]

Before you go taking things apart it is easier to unplug the ignition switch under the dash and, using a meter, verify if the switch is working as it should. DMCH should have whatever you need but it is best to only order what you need and to do that you should do some testing first. if you do have to take the column apart, and you have the older 2 key system, this would be a good time to upgrade to the 1 key system.

I wouldn't be replacing the lock assembly, just the ignition switch and actuator. Besides, I have centralized locking. I don't think I've ever used the door keys.