No first gear when cold

[Ron]

If the fluid level is low, it would have a problem with more than 1st gear cold. First sign would be slipping, especially when pulling off. A half quart low might cause the fluid to get too hot, but not slipping or not engaging the correct gear(s).

If it still has problems and it passes the light tests, try putting the selector in 1st and see if it has engine braking/hold.
Keep in mind that D clutch packs are VERY unforgiving if you load them up in too high of a gear.

[Michael]

After bringing the fluid level up,, it seems to be shifting correctly now. Just took it out cold and it's shifting into and pulling out in first and shifting perfectly. It still could be an intermittent problem but if it does return, at least it's most likely a shift computer or electronic issue and not a mechanical trans issue.

[Ron]

After bringing the fluid level up,, it seems to be shifting correctly now. Just took it out cold and it's shifting into and pulling out in first and shifting perfectly. It still could be an intermittent problem but if it does return, at least it's most likely a shift computer or electronic issue and not a mechanical trans issue.

That's good news!
Yeah, it could have been a lot of things: shift computer, multi-function switch, solenoid, debris, seal, etc....
Hopefully it will not show up again when the weather gets real cold.

[Michael]

It's showed up again! No surprise the weather turned cold. So when it's ice cold...it shifts normal. When it's "lukewarm" it has no first, then when it's warm it shifts perfect, and when the selector is in 1, holds first as long as I want it to. PS when it's acting up selecting low gear at the shifter does nothing..it's just second gear as well.

Let it sit for an hour or 2, and it doesn't like to be in first (will shift to second early, back to first, back to second) and after a very short time, shifts normally again.

At this stage I thinking either shift computer or solenoid. I haven't dropped the pan yet but I will try to do so next week and do a visual inspection of the valve body, solenoids, fluid, and filter and do a service. I will also check the vacuum lines and electric wires for damage.

With the lights hooked up, could I just start the car, put the selector in "1" and see if both lights are on or do the wheels have to spin? I mean it's already going to be on a lift but no load may make the shift very early if I select D

Could I just forego the lights all together by having the pan dropped, a friend in the car turn the ignition on, select Low gear and visually watch(feel) both solenoids engage or does the car have to be running?

[Michael]

I'm overthinking this...before I do anything else, I guess I could just use LONG wires and feed the lights into the driver cabin and drive it. Don't know why I didn't think of that to begin with.

[mhanch]

I was getting all kinds of wonky shifting because my WOT microswitch was stuck Closed. (made it run rich). IF you havent, you might unplug that to confirm it's not a suspect.

Good Luck

[Michael]

I was getting all kinds of wonky shifting because my WOT microswitch was stuck Closed. (made it run rich). IF you havent, you might unplug that to confirm it's not a suspect.

Good Luck

Thanks. I checked the function of both the kickdown and WOT but not the continuity.

[Ron]

I'm overthinking this...before I do anything else, I guess I could just use LONG wires and feed the lights into the driver cabin and drive it. Don't know why I didn't think of that to begin with.

That's because you must of missed post 26 in the link I posted above.

Make sure that the bulbs have one lead in common fed with 12V...they should be controlled by ground.

[Michael]

That's because you must of missed post 26 in the link I posted above.

Make sure that the bulbs have one lead in common fed with 12V...they should be controlled by ground.

I suck

[Ron]